Friday 3 April 2015

On Mercedes 410D chassis variant gearbox options for higher cruising speed.

There were two boxes for this chassis. I don't know what the official name was but I have seen them called the city box and the country box. The city box.as fitted to all Merc Hymers has the lower ratios - 1st is a crawler that will pull down a house, and 5th feels like 4th needing a 6th! The country box - ie for the autobahn - is just what you want. Every gear is a speed higher. 1st becomes like the old 2nd and 5th is the gear you really desire now! But it's not all sweetness and light - Hymer do things for a reason, and the reason they fit the slow box is because a motorhome chassis is pretty fully loaded all it's life, and the engine, while it will go forever, is underpowered....realistically. With low gearing, any Hymer from a 550 to a 700 at 4.6 tons will tackle any gradient, anywhere.
I know this from experience, as I finally found and fitted a country box in my (turbo'd) S700 a couple of years ago. Basically I love it because it's quieter at speed on the motorway, which to be honest is where we spend most of our time. But I have also been in a few situations where I have smoked the clutch - for some weird reason even reverse is a higher ratio, and it just doesn't like reversing up steep turns! I have also found myself cursing it on certain steep gradients, where 2nd is too low and 3rd is too high.
But all in all I am happy with it, and an owner of a 5 series or 6 series with turbo should also appreciate it, as long as you take care off road, and in the mountains.
But the boxes are hard to find! But not impossible! The gearbox numbers are 711.110 (standard low ratio box) and 711.113 (high ratio box)
Others have solved the problem by fitting 16' wheels which, with the original box, gives about 10% extra rolling speed..... but I have also read of problems of rubbing on bodywork, and the 16" wheels that fit the Merc hubs are also hard to find - and replacing up to 7 wheels and tyres is more expensive than a box - my box cost £250, but I have no idea how good or bad that price is.
Others talk about the "coach diff" this is a higher ratio rear axle and diff which was fitted to minibuses based on the 4 series T1 - ie 410D - again to allow higher motorway cruising speed for minibuses. But I have never actually come across anybody who has actually done it.
So you have three options!


More notes on this subject from a recent discussion in 2017.

 I have done a lot of research over the years on trying to higher the gearing on the Merc (mine's a 700), mainly to lower the revs for a better motorway cruise. It has been discussed on here quite a lot, and also on the other forums before CH existed. 

There are 3 ways you can do it. 1. Increase the wheel size. 2. Change the diff. 3. Change the gearbox.

Changing the wheel size is not as easy as it sounds because it's hard to find a set (off a 508 I think) of 7, and even if you do, it's not cheap. I didn't look into the diff option much, but I do remember that some bloke on a forum told me that there were several diffs offered by Merc, in particular one that was known in the trade as the "coach diff", used on minibuses. This was about 10 years ago and I never actually got to the point of finding out ratios and part numbers for diffs because I chose to go the gearbox route.

I was told that there were two gearboxes available across the range - low and high. The high ratio box was fitted on light vans and trucks and was favoured for long distance work, and the low box was for the bigger vehicles and sacrificed top end speed for low end torque and pulling power. No prizes for guessing what Hymer specified! Effectively we got a crawler 1st gear that was hardly ever used but would pull a house down, and a top gear that felt like 3rd gear in a car and was screaming at 60mph.

Eventually I found a breaker in Cornwall who knew what he was talking about and I managed to find the part numbers of the boxes, and how to tell them apart. I bought a 711.113




box from him for £200, and had it fitted. It takes about 3 hours if you have a ramp and good tools. Less with no interruptions! It takes a bit longer if you are changing the box from LHD to RHD or vice versa.

I have been very happy with it. It performs exactly as expected. 1st is now a normal gear and 5th is now a motorway gear, and the van is much quieter on the motorway. However it is not all roses. As most of us know the Merc engine may be bulletproof, but it isn't a powerhouse. My van is turbo'd but even so the slightest sniff of a hill on the motorway and you are changing down. On cross country trips on A roads you have to work the box, and unlike the original box, which would climb most A road hills in 3rd, I am often to be found in 2nd at 20mph with a queue behind me. But this was a compromise I was always willing to make because I reckoned that 90% of journey time is motorway. You also lose the crawler, ultralow, first, which did have its uses. Occasionally in tight spots and extreme hill starts I have had to smoke the clutch. Hymer knew what they were doing I suppose. 

The comments above about gearing and speed and power are of course absolutely right. I did it as an experiment, and was willing to go back to the old box. But basically I am happy with the result - it's different, but usable, and quieter on the motorway. Although in my dreams about 50bhp extra would be lovely! 

I have no idea how you managed to end up with 2 diffs the same, but I am a bit doubtful that your van had already had a new diff fitted by a previous owner, surely that info would have been passed on from new owner to new owner. In 17 years in Merc Hymers I have never heard of anybody changing the rear diff. Wheel and tyre changes have been the most popular, especially on the earlier Hymers based on the 409, where the problem was even worse. And then me and a couple of others have changed the box.

The box I bought proved to had had a hard life. Syncro was dodgy into 4th and it was leaking a tiny bit of oil through the selector shaft oil seals. My mechanic said it wasn't worth the labour to fix them - it only needed topping up once a year. But it was a bit noisy too. But it had proved the principle, so all I now needed to do was to find another box in better condition. I set up an Ebay search 2 years ago, then forgot about it. Then last summer I suddenly got an email that there was a box for sale. £200 again, buy it now. I asked the guy for a photo of the plate, which he sent me by return. The serial number on the box was about a quarter of a million units newer than my box, and the guy told me it had come off an M reg 310 flatbed - so was probably one of the last ever produced. So I bought it. For various reasons it took me ages to get down there and pick it up, and the funny thing is, I only finally had it fitted last week! I am now a very happy bunny. The old box wasn't that bad, but the new one is lovely. It is quieter and syncro is lovely and smooth, and of course it is not leaking oil. Until I found this new box, I had been considering having it reconditioned, but that isn't cheap.

So if you want to continue the quest, despite the setback with the diff, then I hope this info is useful. Somewhere I have pics of the high ratio box and its plate with the numbers on. The guy I bought it off is a great guy - he only deals in Mercs and he breaks them up and sends the parts to Africa in containers. Nearly all the old Merc cars and vans from the pre Sprinter era have been exported to Africa. Occasionally he puts ads on Ebay because he knows there is still a following for them in the UK. He probably knows all about diff ratios too. His name is Mark, he works from a farm near Stowmarket. 07950 269508.

15 comments:

  1. I fitted 16” sprinter wheels to mine. No rubbing and handling/cruising speed has been greatly improved. Also gives better ground clearance and stainless hupcaps are more readily available. Win win :)

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    1. Hi,
      where do you keep your spare wheel?
      is it not to big to fit under the van like the 14' original?

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    2. I sightly modified the wheel carrier to suit the larger wheel. 15 min job to sort.

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  2. Hi I have a 89 Hymer 660's. We have a big family so it was always fully loaded and experienced the "snail" qualities of owning one of these. The previous owner, even put a snail sticker on the front, now i know why!

    So i changed the wheels to 16inch first, some improvement, but not enough for me. If you get the correct wheels with the correct offset (cant remember if its 609 wheels or 508?) there is no clearance issues, bolt straight on.

    Next i changed the gearbox to a 711 113, vast improvement, with reasonable revs / motorway cruising speeds, and so far not experienced hill starting problems, but no doubt i will one day!

    And thirdly, and the most difficult to find info on, i changed the injector pump, for a "tuned" version. My god, what a difference, this huge camper now feels sprightly! Mine is a 602, 2.9 with a turbo inter cooler conversion carried out by previous owner. After literately years of research, i eventually found a guy in somerset, who builds high end G wagons (merc's early answer to range rover) i didn't realize these have a cult status now with lots of customers willing to pay for expensive rebuilds and improvements.

    Anyway, he knows all these is to know about tuning these 602 2.9 diesels. He told me, the first restriction on the engine and the first thing he does is upgrade the injector pump. These are built by a tuning company in Germany, with larger "reeds" i think it is and cost about £1000 exchange.

    Its a proper diesel performance company, and comes with a spec sheet, test sheet etc. You need a good solid engine to begin with of course. So i got one, had it fitted at £350 and everything is great, straight swap, pump comes all correctly adjusted etc.

    I've not been on a longer enough run to see how much extra fuel i'm using yet!

    Its not cheep i know, but on some long trips i've done, driving to Grease etc, crawling up a slight incline at 20 miles an hour, can get very frustrating. I know we should all calm down and enjoy the ride, but sometimes life is busy, and this extra power make me feel that i'm making good headway, keeping up with the rest of the traffic and calms me down, so in my mind, money well spent!

    My next quest is to improve the front brakes (no, not because I'm now driving so fast!) Coming down some smaller A roads down the alps last year and the year before, because you are literately on the breaks all the time, i encountered "brake fade" which was very disconcerting around those narrow mountain roads.

    For those of you who don't know what that is, its when the brakes get so hot, they start to lose their breaking ability. And that causes you to break harder, which makes the brakes hotter, until the brake fluid boils and you lose the breaks all together!

    So i want to fit vented front disks to the front axle. Anyone have any experience of this? Or a change of axle to a later vented disk one?

    Anyway, that's just a brief description of what i did. If anyone wants the names of the companies etc i used, let me know and I'll dig them out.

    Johnny

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    Replies
    1. Hi Johny,
      Please can I the Somerset tuners details?
      Thanks,
      Rory

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  3. Hey Johnny that's great info! Thanks! The problem is and always has been power to weight ratio. 95 HP from the 602, regardless of gearing and wheel size, basically isn't enough. Fitting larger wheels reduces the revs on the motorway which makes for quieter cruising, but show it a hill and you are in 4th, or even 3rd. Same for the 113 box. I have standard 14" wheels, but have changed to the 113 box. I also have a TB turbo conversion, which, after many years of experience, I have come to the conclusion that it adds very little extra. The reason for this I suspect (and agreed by several diesel experts I have spoken to) is that unless the turbo is working in conjunction with an ECU controlled injector pump, you only get a fraction of the potential power increase. All I am getting is slightly increased induction pressure, which helps, and I am glad I have it, but no way is it a miracle cure.

    It's even worse for me because I drive a fully loaded S700. On steep mountain roads I am down to a steady 30kph (that's kph not mph!!) in 2nd gear, and occasionally I have to drop down to first on extreme hairpins. What the 6 and 7 series Hymer needs is more horsepower - from anywhere! Wheel size and gear ratios only fiddles around the edges.

    The problem comes down to money! Either you just put up with it and get used to the slowness, or you chuck money at it. I have read many stories about people re-engining Merc T1s - not just Hymers. There is a turbo version of the 602 that was fitted in 1st generation Sprinters. Also the 602 was licensed to Ssangyong for use in their 4x4s - and they were turbo'd. If you are a mechanic or have access to facilities, then everything is possible. But if you are just a normal punter you are looking at £5k plus for a new engine.

    It's funny you should mention the G-Wagen. I came across a firm in Yorkshire who specialises in G-Wagens and 602s. I spoke to him a couple of years back, but I got the impression that he wasn't that interested in a motorhome project. he claims he can get 300BHP from a 602! This is overkill - my feeling is that 150BHP would be perfect for a Hymer.

    So yes I would be interested to know about this firm in Somerset for sure. Please contact me on FB or email.

    Re brakes - I have blogged about this, maybe you have read it. I don't want to enter into a brake discussion on this non-brake blog ... please make a comment on one of these posts and I will answer there. There are things you can do to minimise the problem.

    https://hymers700.blogspot.com/search?q=brakes

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  4. Hi

    Yes i think i agree on the TB conversion, it doesn't seem to be much different to a standard 602 Hymer, as you said. On the other hand, the modified pump feels like you have nitro!.

    I even had mine on a rolling road to see what BHP i was getting and it was 42HP at the wheels, about as much as a 2CV!! I was astonished, and we double checked it twice as it seemed ludicrously low for a 4.6 tone monster.But it was. And as far as anyone could tell, my engine was all good and in good condition, with only 85K miles.

    I thought it might be blocked fuel lines , so i had all those renewed, the tank flushed and refurbed, new fuel filters, on and on it went.

    I also went down the road of getting another engine from a Ssangyong, but when the G wagon turner guy, came to have a look, he said my engine in the Hymer was better condition. In the end through sheer frustration, i decided against swapping the engine as i couldn't find a decent doner engine or a garage willing to take it on and just went for the pump swap. Seems to have worked.

    The Guy i got the information about for the pump from, originally started out as potentially taking on the work, then after mainly phone calls lost interest as your guy did, i guess an old hymer camper is not that much of a sexy project for an engine tuner!

    Thats why he passed the supplier of the pump direct to me.

    So yes I'll dig the info out.

    And where do i find the posts about the brakes etc? I came straight to this post from google.

    Good job we're persistent!

    Thanks
    John

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    Replies
    1. I linked the brakes info in my reply!

      https://hymers700.blogspot.com/search?q=brakes

      Or just search the blog for brakes.

      Really looking forward to the contact info - I'm going to be all over this! When did you have the work done?

      Look me up on Facebook - I am admin of the Merc Hymer group.

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  5. Hi John,

    Thanks for getting back. I feel like I have read a lot of your forum posts trying to find the power! :) Do you have a Citroen Mehari you tow as well?

    I have a modified fuel pump (with 6mm elements) and just had a turbo and intercooler fitted. The issue I am having is when the boost comes on the engine power just dies. It really feels like fuel delivery issues. My mechanic as we speak is bypassing all 3 fuel filters, 1 at a time, to see if they are the culprit.

    John - obviously you have had all the fuel lines and tank flushed etc - I am hoping it is something similar preventing the new higher demand of fuel getting through. Did you keep the fuel tank filter in or bypass it completely?

    My van is 1992 S660 with 120k on the clock and is in excellent condition. With my turbo conversion I have removed the viscous fan and replaced it with an electric thermostatically controlled fan as this is meant to rob another few hp.

    Did you put it back on the rolling road after turboing? What boost psi are you running?

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  6. John - Is the direct pump supplier Diesel Meken? I got mine from DieselpumpUK but have read that the 2 suppliers had a big fall out over DieselpumpUK making their own version of the pump and not using Diesel Meken pump - it's on youtube.

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  7. John - where have you gone? I can't contact you - I don't have your details.

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  8. Hi Rory

    Yes that's me, with the Mehari! Ok my scenario was i bought the truck with the TB conversation and it was always slow / sluggish. Everything i tried made no difference. I had the pump checked by an ex employee of TB Turbo's to make sure it was adjusted up, he couldn't find anything wrong, but admitted it was very under powered for a TB conversion.

    After that i had all the filters replaced again, lines flushed and had the tank refurbed. One thing i did have was the coating in the tank was coming off and filling the tank with sludge and blocking the filter on top of the tank. i switched this to a clear filter so i could see easily if it was blocked, which it did a lot on a long tourney, slowly getting even slower than the very slow of norm, i would change it.

    I had the tank professionally coated inside and although that was not the cause of the engine being under powered, it was another problem.

    Anyway, i digress. Once i had the tuned diesel pump fitted, i had no problems, power all the way? I had a:

    7.5 mm element conversion pump, with a outside ALDA, from Dieselmeken, germany. he did recommend a 6mm element pump, but given the time and money already sunk into this, and the guy from the G wagen tuning recommending the 7.5 mm element, i decided I'd rather go too big than to small, but it was probably an overkill in hind sight.

    Address

    Med vänliga hälsningar
    Best Regards
    Dieselmeken i Aneby AB
    Stigbergsvägen 5
    57833 Aneby
    Sweden
    +46 3804100
    +46 705176566
    Göran Dieselmeken Lindgren
    email
    dieselmeken@msn.com

    I went on rolling road with the turbo conversion, but with out the new pump and got 42 BHP at the wheels!

    I've not been back on it yet, with new pump, but having this conversation, i am going to book it in next week to see what i have now.

    I don't know what to say about yours. So before new pump, it was running well, just low power? Now with new pump, it loses power as soon as boost comes on? It does sound like fuel starvation. Why don't you try what i did to eliminate all the fuel lines and filters etc. I ridged up a Jerry can on the passenger seat (put a plastic sheet and loads of old towels etc down, just in case you have a slight spillage)with a pipe direct to the last filter on the engine block. That was a new filter so i new that was good and i had a new clear pipe to the Jerry can. i then tried it, and proved that it was nothing in my existing fuel line causing the problem.

    My pump came fully adjusted, with spec sheet etc, so no adjustment of the pump was required. Did yours come like this? If not, are you sure its been adjusted properly when fitted? I made sure i used a proper diesel injection specialist to fit mine as i dident want a remote chance, of an inexperienced mechanic, getting in a mess with it. It was surprisingly hard to find anyone with the experience required to work on these , now quite old engines. And what i mean by that, is someone with experience, who understands the engine, not just a "new part fit", person!

    Another, stupidly simply, but worth a look at, issue, check that the throttle peddle can travel all the way. There is an adjustable stop underneath it and over time with mates and carpets, the peddle can become obstructed and not travel the full amount.

    Also, check the linkage from the peddle to the pump, if every joint has worn a bit, you can lose quite a lot with all the joints.

    I don't think the last two are causing your problem, but worth looking at.

    Get back to me on the questions, to see where you are at.

    I'm a bit reluctant to put my email on here in case it gets picked up by a Bot and i get millions of emails! Can you give me your mobile and I'll text my email to you? maybe in two separate messages, with spelt numbers!





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  9. Just drop me an email funkyronster at the usual G place!

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  10. Hi guys. after being mothballed for a few years due to covid amongst other things, i've got my 660s out and need to do the clutch in it. All that extra power, has made my clutch start to slip. I am hoping that it was worn out anyway and not a week link with this extra power! whilst at it, i want to look at the linkages as i think the garage that put the 711 113 box in, diden't do it right. Does anybody know how to do this or a link to anyone that does?

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  11. HI Wub - I think we have chatted on forums many years ago. I have a lot more info on my facebook group - Classic Hymers Technical. Including notes on gear selectors. There are 2 methods. The clutch should cope with anything you throw at it, mine does. Either it is worn out, or the clutch slave cylinder in leaking oil inside the bell housing. It's a lot easier on FB than on here. Or email me. funkyronster at G

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