Solar update - big 300w panels ...

The new(ish) big panels of 300w+ - there are several available from Bimble at great prices - offer serious power for full timers and heavy users. The 30amp Tracer MPPT from Bimble is an excellent controller.

I replaced 3 120w older panels with a single 320w big panel that covers the whole of the front section of my roof on my classic S700 and the results have been fantastic. 22 amps has been the max so far in what has been an average summer in a northern latitude. But what has impressed me the most is that recent panels have a much better low light performance. I have been seeing 10 amps under cloud! I also recently installed a 320w panel on another guys 700 and that has also been a success.

But you need a big battery to store all that power, and you need to need to use it, otherwise it's overkill. With everything on - computers and TVs - all day and evening, we consume about 10amps/hour. On a bright day, even in autumn, a 300w panel will cope with that nicely. I would suggest that 200 to 400ah battery capacity is about right. I use the Odyssey PC1800 which is brilliant.

With Bimble selling 300w panels around £140 and the controller costing around £140, plus cable and bits, a high power solar system has never been cheaper - as long as you have the batteries to store it. I estimate our off grid time is about double what it was last year, with the added bonus of more power available in spring and autumn when the days are shorter.

The 3 and a half commonest Mercedes problems that can ruin your holiday.

Our beloved Mercs - the 309/310 and 409/410 pre 95 T1 Transporter chassis - are world renowned for being bombproof and good for a million. But they are not 100% perfect, neither are they maintenance free.

Over the last 17 years from my own experiences and being an active member on forums and Facebook groups, I have come to a conclusion that there are three and a half common problems that have the potential to bring a trip, or worse, a holiday, to a miserable stop. The first three are the cooling system, the gear selectors and the fuel delivery system ... and the half is the brakes - it's only half a problem with the brakes because usually they don't actually take you off the road, they just give you a fright!

All of these have been covered elsewhere in this blog, the purpose of this article is just to give a heads up to new and existing owners in case it ever happens to you.

Cooling system. 

All our vans are now over 20 years old and are usually still on their original radiators and fans. The radiators get clogged up inside and out and their efficiency reduces over the years, and the visco coupled fan gets tired and doesn't cut in when it should. Because we live in a cool country with not many mountains, you usually don't get to find out you have a problem until you are climbing up some Alpine pass in the middle of summer. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge. It it creeps up towards the red on a long hill, this is a sign your cooling system isn't 100%. A quick fix is to have all the accumulated crud blown out of the rad with a high pressure airline. This will often alleviate the problem - temporarily. Ultimately a new radiator and/or a new visco coupling mechanism may be needed to get the van back to normal performance. A system flush and fluid replacement can also work wonders. DO NOT run a Merc engine into the red or boil it over - you will crack the head and worse. The temp gauge is usually accurate - It will run to just under the red zone, but don't go there if you can possibly avoid it. Your radiator cap is also likely to be original, so if you have any cooling work done, always have a new rad cap and thermostat fitted. The water pump can also go on high mileage vans. Hoses rarely cause a problem, but should be checked.

Gear selectors.

Between the bottom of the gear stick and the gearbox is a system of rods and levers that select the gears. These can work loose, and bushes get worn leading to gear selection problems. It is rarely terminal - I have never known a Merc manual box to actually break - it is always the selectors. There are a couple of articles on here about it. Search for "gearbox".

Fuel system.

There is a gauze filter on the bottom of the fuel lifter in the tank, an inline filter between the tank and the main filter/pump, a breather pipe on the top of the tank, and the main fuel filter itself. All need maintenance and cleaning, and often have had no maintenance for 20 years. If the van is underpowered, especially on hills, or even just stutters and stops, then it is usually the fuel system. It is rarely the pump or injectors. This is a very common problem. Search for "fuel filter" for more info.

Brakes.

The back brakes on the Mercs do most of the heavy braking, especially on the 409/410 bigger vans. They need regular checking and maintenance, especially the "load balancing sensor". You don't know you have a problem until you have an "Italian Job" moment coming down 28 hairpins on the St Gotthard Pass and the pedal hits the floor. If the back brakes are not up to scratch then the fronts get overworked, get hot, and boil the fluid. Patience and engine braking will get you down safely and to a garage. Many of our vans are still on the original fluid. In extreme cases use the handbrake, which is mechanical not hydraulic. Again, this is a problem that usually manifests itself when you are a long way from the M6 - usually on holiday in the Alps or Pyrenees. Search for "brakes".



These blog articles are for guidance - I am not a qualified mechanic. There are a few other Merc related issues, but these are the main ones - not just in my own experience, but in reading the forums and blogs.

Other problems are squeaking fan belt tensioners, leaky vacuum pipes and the occasional broken fan belt - carry a spare (they are a pig to fit). Vans with over 200k can expect to need a new water pump eventually.

Have I missed anything? Please comment below.

Oyster 1 satellite dish upgrade using Zeniatech modification

Oyster 1 satellite dish upgrade using Zeniatech modification

The Oyster 1 motorhome satellite system was the system of choice in the 1990s. It was built to last, and is still to be found on the roofs of many classic motorhomes today. The problem is though - they no longer work! Well they do, after a fashion, because the dish can still be positioned manually, but this is a fiddly job. 

The situation was created when the Astra satellite people upgraded from the old analogue TV system to digital, and they changed the way the satellites identified themselves. Unfortunately for the Oyster 1 this rendered them obsolete overnight, and there were many many really angry customers as a result. Oyster did everything they could to make the best of the situation, but even the most basic modifications they could come up with cost well over £500. In the end many owners decided to scrap them and buy new, and vowed never to buy Oyster again. This was a a bit unfair on Oyster, as they had no warning from Astra about what was going to happen, as this would have been commercially sensitive information. Such is the cost of progress.

I acquired a 1993 Hymer that had an Oyster 1 fitted. I knew it wouldn’t work automatically, and the seller said so - so I basically got it for nothing. But I knew it would work after a fashion. I changed the LNB for a more modern one for £40 and bought a cheap digital satellite box from Maplin. Using the compass built into my Iphone, and a satellite location app from the app store, I soon learned how to position the dish manually. But it takes about 10 minutes, so I only ever used it when something big was on like a cup final or Wimbledon, and in an area where I couldn’t get normal Freeview from the local TV transmitter. I also knew it would be useful when traveling in Europe, because the Oyster 1 dish is quite big, and would receive Freesat down as far as the south of France.

But I always thought at the back of my mind, that it should be possible to modify the control unit and bring it back to life. Sure enough a year or so later, I read about a guy in Ireland who had done just that, and I immediately entered into correspondence with him, and a few weeks later I had his kit delivered at a cost of €200 inc delivery. It comprises of a small box about the size of half a paperback book, and it simply plugs into the existing RJ45 network interface socket on the Oyster 1. It has a display and a keyboard, but the unit comes pre-configured for Astra 2. It can be re-programmed if Astra make any future changes. It can also be programmed to seek out other satellites, such as Hotbird or Eutelsat, which is useful if you are a long way abroad.

Well I love things that work straight out of the box, and this one was an absolute joy. We are talking about 20 year old equipment here - it hadn't auto seeked a satellite for over 10 years! I just plugged the new into the Oyster box and pressed the on switch. The dish started to whirr on the roof, it did a few 360s and then locked on. BBC1 HD appeared immediately on my TV. Since then it has worked without a fault. I get a rock solid signal - even occasionally when trees are in the way, which I think is down to the fact that the dish is quite big by modern standards.

I had the added bonus that although my Samsung TV was HD ready, it did not have a Freeview HD tuner. It could only display HD pictures from an external source such as a DVD player or an HD sat receiver. I had never had HD TV in the van before and I was well impressed with the picture.

But there was another slight problem. Although I had access to over 200 Freesat channels from Astra 2, plus at least another 300 or so of other weird channels, organising them was a pain, and worse still, the EPG would only display “now and next”. This was because my cheap Maplins satellite receiver was a generic unit, not a dedicated Freesat box. After a bit of research online I discovered that in order to have a full UK EPG, similar to what I was used to on terrestrial Freeview, I would need a dedicated Freesat box. So I decided to ditch the Maplins receiver (it will be useful abroad in the future) and I ordered the entry level Humax Freesat box for £95. A Freesat box is programmed to receive only the UK Freesat channels, and ignores the rest, and it has a full 7 day EPG. It is a joy to use - even better the than the Sky+ box I used to have when I lived in a house!

I am very impressed! The box will connect to the internet, so if I have a wifi connection, I can play BBC Iplayer and a whole host of other on demand services. I have also plugged an old 500gb USB hard drive into the back of it, and that gives me a live pause and record facility. Of course this is of limited use in a motorhome, because the dish will not be up while driving, and so recording will not always be possible, but I can take this into consideration. It is a very useful facility to have. And it is also extremely useful to have live pause when watching TV.

So for about £300 I now have a pretty sophisticated satellite HD TV system in the van, with recording and live pause. Of course this is no different to most modern systems, so I am not claiming anything special, but what is particularly satisfying is to be re-commissioning what was an obsolete piece of kit, and in particular, an extremely well built piece of kit. Modern van satellite systems are not cheap!

If you have one of these old Oyster 1 dishes on the roof of your van, you now have the opportunity to bring it back to life. I am well chuffed.

Contact - John Gibbons of Zeniatech - zeniatech@gmail.com

Technical footnote. Sophisticated users can install dual or even quad LNBs to enable multiple recordings. If you pay more, then you can buy Freesat boxes with built in HDs up to a Terabyte. If you are streaming TV over the internet, make sure you are aware of how much data you will use and what your tariff is. I also have seen some forum comments that you can use an old Sky+ box and get similar results.

Ahoy there

RONS TECHNICAL TIPS NO - "AHOY THERE!"

Caravan and Motorhome repair and accessory shops can be few and far between when you are in far away places (or Scotland!). 

But don't forget that boats use many of the components in our vans - or very similar. Boatyard people also will have the skills and understanding to try and help you out.

So if you are near the coast, or a big lake - a lake big enough to have plenty of boat activity - then head for the nearest town and search out the local boatyard. They always have bits and pieces - "chandlery" and fibreglass skills.

In the UK, and countries like Holland, Germany and France which have extensive canal networks, you will also find boatyards and repair places inland - so check your maps for canals.

In an emergency there is a good chance that a boatyard can sort you out or effect a running repair. They will also know the best local places for diesel work - most boats have diesel engines.

Just don't park on the slipway - especially if it's green!

Mifi

RONS TECHNICAL TIPS NO. MIMO WIFI MIFI WIBBLE 

MIFI'S AND ANTENNAS EXPLAINED FOR MOBILE DATA

There are two types of Mifi device - those with sockets for an external antenna, and those without. Those without are in the majority, and they rely on a built in antenna. The built in antenna is identical to those used in normal phones, so a mifi with an internal antenna should perform the same as a normal phone, for data, on the same network. This is good enough for most users. The networks claim that they have over 90% coverage, but we all know that out in the country there is always a chance that you won't get a signal. Sometimes you will be in a "fringe" area, where the signal is weak, and sometimes you can improve things by moving the device around - putting it near a window, or higher up. I have often managed to get a signal on a mifi device by velcroing it to the rooflight!

Radio waves travel in straight lines, so it is common knowledge that you get much better reception if your antenna is high up and unobstructed. That's why TV antennas are mounted up on the chimney, and commercial radio masts are located on high masts on top of hills.

So for those people who want the maximum performance from a mifi device, adding an external antenna can make a big difference. In fact it is a very big difference, because an external antenna is much bigger and more efficient. Generally speaking an external antenna will give you at least 10 times more signal than an internal one. However it will not guarantee you a signal everywhere. Some places just don't have any coverage - full stop. But many places have a weak signal - too weak for an internal antenna, but no problem for a big external antenna.

But it's not cheap, and no compromises can be made - approx £40 to £80 for the antenna, plus fitting. Coax cable has to be run into the van from the antenna, and properly weatherproofed. Coax cable also loses a proportion of the signal per metre, so it's length should be minimised. Because the antenna sockets on mifi units are so small, they can be very fiddly, so it is best to locate the unit in a place where it will not be moved very much.

You will also come across something called MIMO, which stands for Multiple Input Multiple Output (open loop spatial multiplexing). This is a system where two antennas are used for simultaneous transmit and receive, resulting in better performance. That's why most mifis have two antenna sockets, and most external antennas have two coax leads - one for each socket. There isn't much alternative nowadays - it's nearly all MIMO - that's why most external antennas are plastic domes - there are 2 antennas inside.

What to go for is entirely up to you - it's basically the same as the old portable tellys. You would get a decent picture if you were lucky, sometimes a grainy one, and quite often none at all. If you then plugged in an external antenna up on the roof or on a pole outside, then the picture suddenly went perfect.

What I like about my external antenna is that it is always on - no setting up. The van has wifi all the time, which feeds a laptop, two phones, two tablets and a GPS. If we are in the middle of nowhere, and there is no signal, we just accept it, because we know that we have an excellent antenna, so we don't have to bother messing about about trying to reposition devices for better reception. 

Mifi devices with antenna sockets are a little more expensive, and those that have their own display are preferable, because you can can see at a glance if you have a signal. Quite often just moving the van from one pitch to another can make a difference - radio waves can act in very strange ways, because they tend to reflect off rocks and buildings, so moving the van just a few feet can make a difference.

Suitable mifi units with antenna sockets include the following - 

HUAWEI: E5372, E5377, E5786, E8278, E392, E398, 5577, B315, E5186
VODAFONE: R210 R212 R215 R216 K5150
ZTE: MF821 MF823 MF93E

This is not a complete list. Personally I use Huawei, and have found them to offer good value for money.

RON'S TECHNICAL TIPS NO. AH AH STAYIN ALIVE STAYIN ALIVE

RON'S TECHNICAL TIPS NO. AH AH STAYIN ALIVE STAYIN ALIVE

INVERTERS + Hairdryers, Straighteners and Toasters. (And laptops).

Most people know that you can buy an inverter that will convert 12v van power into 240v home power, so you can use your stuff from home - phone chargers, laptop etc. All very useful if you are not hooked up.

But if you do buy an inverter you MUST be aware of the basic rules. It's not like at home where you can plug anything in and not think about it.

There is a big nuclear power station somewhere supplying your power at home - lots of it - almost unlimited amounts, but in your van all you have is a small battery. 

If I try and explain volts and watts, some of you may start to nod off, so I'll just try and sum it up in a couple of statements.

Converting 12v to 240v through an inverter can take a LOT of battery power.

Anything that generates heat - hairdryers, straighteners, toasters, will put a BIG strain on a battery. To run appliances like this you need a proper proffesional install - don't DIY unless you know exactly what you are doing. Badly wired inverter installations can destroy you and your van.

Low power devices, phone chargers, speakers are fine, laptops are in the middle. For your low power devices, a 200w inverter, more or less, will be fine. 

Finally PLEASE don't use your cigar socket to power an inverter. I know many people do and get away with it, but it's basically wrong! Cigar sockets are connected to the vehicle battery, not the leisure battery, and too much use and the van won't start. Nothing more than a phone or a GPS should ever be plugged into a cigar socket.

All but the tiniest of inverters should be directly wired to the battery and properly fused.

PS All the above only applies if you want 240v mains power when NOT hooked up. If you are hooked up to a campsite - then just carry on as normal!

For more info read 12v for Dummies in the file section, or on my blog here.

12v leisure battery systems for total dummies!

Motorhome 12v basics for beginners. I get lots of questions on Classic Hymers about power - so here we go! First you need to grasp t...

HYMERS700.BLOGSPOT.COM

Headlamp adjusters

RON'S TECHNICAL TIPS number 3.14 pi ...

If you want to get your Mercedes (and others) headlight adjuster working again, here is the kit to do it. Bookmark it!
http://www.ebay.de/…/Elekt-Leuchtweitenregulie…/201545448425

And here is the amusingly machine translated description - I believe that "electricity thieves" refers to Scotchlok connectors, the use of which is a criminal offence in Germany...(well it should be!)

Electrical LWR Conversion Kit Mercedes T1 T2 Bremer
MB 208 MB 308 MB 410 MB 309 MB 310 MB 313
Hymer S Class S 550 S 700
Conversion kit from hydraulic to electric headlamp leveling.

As simple as NEVER !!!!!!!!!
Connect Only together Insert, and Plus & mass.

And all through the pre-assembled wiring harness.

Now with the use of the original knob
which keeps the optics in your vehicle 100% guaranteed.

We do not use electricity thieves !!!

Plus is taken in the fuse box of the low beam control, minus the star distributor under the dashboard

The leveling control is suitable for:

Mercedes T1 Bremer
Mercedes T2 Düsseldorf
MB 208
MB 308
MB 410
MB 309
MB 310
MB 313
Hymer S Class
Hymer Eriba S 550
Hymer Eriba S 700

For questions we are at your disposal.
Tel 06198-502296 e-mail:. Info@leuchtweiten-shop.de

This makes future heist in the main test,

HU Passed!

Here you can see the delivery ______________ use simply glue in the knob

The servo motors are a Swiss brand, have an aluminum shaft for receiving the ball head screws, are waterproof and have to adjust a manual adjustment knob at the back of the headlight basic setting.
Fittingly use for the Ducato 230, 280, 290, Volvo 440/460, Hymer, Mercedes all models with hydraulic leveling control, Fiat all models with hydraulic LWR
Delivery:
2 x headlight range control motor ( new parts ) Modified on a CNC machine for different vehicle types.
1 x Round regulator ( new parts )
1 x use for the conversion original knob.
3 x distribution for cable brown, yellow, brown / yellow (original equipment quality)
2 x cable ties with mounting base adhesive.
3 x cable ties
4-sided color and of course PRINTED installation instructions with pictures and diagram what good is a PDF in the workshop or garage.

Installation is carried out in about 2-3 hrs. For the Artisan somewhat gifted. (Are they talking about us Peter Curry?!!)

We differ from others:
Because greed is not always Geil!
1. use the glue in the original knob!
2. servomotors are not open to cable to solder because Daduchus
leaks can occur.
3. It works with no electricity thieves because this cable be damaged!
4. Cable with three different colors 1mm Automotive OEM quality.
5. 2 x insulated terminals for + and ground terminal (see photo).
6. Cable ties and base adhesive.
7. Printed color installation instructions and no PDF I somehow self print needs.
Shipping: We only ship insured!

Shipping with DHL Paket in Germany for free.

For shipment delivery DHL +6.90 Euro

Delivery to the following countries: 14,90 Euro with DHL
Belgium, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France (except Guadeloupe, Martinique, French Guiana, Réunion), Great Britain (except Channel Islands of Jersey and Guernsey), Ireland, Italy (except San Marino, Livigno, Vatican City), Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg Monaco, Netherlands, Austria, Poland, Portugal (except Azores and Madeira), Sweden, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain (except Ceuta, Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma, El Hierro, Melilla), Czech Republic , Hungary.

Elekt.Leuchtweitenregulierung T1 T2 Bremer Düssel Mercedes 410D 208D Hymer S LWR

Elekt.Leuchtweitenregulierung T1 T2 Bremer Düssel Mercedes 410D 208D Hymer S LWR in Auto & Motorrad: Teile, Auto-Ersatz- & -Reparaturteile, Lichter &…

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