Truma heater not working?

The Truma 5002 and it's similar siblings are fitted to most Classic Hymers. After many years of good service, eventually they can refuse to light. The fix can be quite easy if you know where to look.

This is how it should work. You push and turn the knob 23. This operates the gas supply and also an electrical switch in the base - 29. This closes the circit in the two switching wires 28, that go to the ignition unit 19. This generates a spark, which goes down wire 42 to the igniter electrode 41. When the fire lights, a flame sensor allows the gas to keep flowing and cuts out the igniter switch so that the ticking stops.

The first thing you need to do is remove the cover - lift and pull forward. Then you need to  look for a small plastic box at the lower left - this is the igniter unit - item 19 in the drawing.

Operate the control knob as if to light the fire, and listen closely for the familiar tic tic sound from the box. If you hear nothing, then you need to look at the igniter. There are 2 types - the commonest has a single AA battery inside. Less commonly the box is powered directly from the van 12v system. The commonest fault is of course a flat battery. Replace the battery and the box should start ticking again and the fire should light.

The fun starts if you replace the battery and the box doesn't tic. There are usually three possible causes for this. The first is that the box is broken and needs replacing. The second is that the spark wire that leads from the back of the box and into the depths of the fire to the burner has worn out somewhere and the spark is escaping to ground before it reaches the burner. The third is that the other two small wires leading to the box - the switching wires - have come loose or are otherwise broken. They come from the bottom of the control knob shaft. When you turn the knob, the circuit is completed and the box should tic.

On igniters that are powered by the van 12v circuit there will be extra wires for this. In this case you must check that the igniter is receiving 12v - the only way to do this properly is with a test meter.

On a battery powered igniter (with a new battery!) you need to check is the unit generating a spark. Unplug the spark wire from the back of the unit and operate the control - you should hear a tic tic. If not, you need to test the switching circuit. Note where the two wires come from the control knob items 27/28 on the diagram, remove the wires from the back of the igniter unit, exposing the pins, and then short out those two pins with the tip of a screwdriver - at 28. If you get a tic, then you have proved that there is a fault in the switching circuit. Look for a break in the wires. Check the wires where they join the bottom of the control knob shaft  - I have never known one to fail here, but you never know.

You need to definitely prove if the ignition unit is generating a spark tic. If it is not, then you need a new ignition unit.

If after changing the battery and operating the switch you are definitely generating a tic, but the fire is not lighting, then the most likely problem is the spark wire that goes from the igniter to the burner - item 42 to 41. After many years this wire gets old and the insulation can break down, and the spark can escape to chassis in many places. Sometimes if you listen very closely you can hear a very weak tic tic but the fire will not light. This is a good clue that the spark lead is broken or worn - it is shorting out before it reaches the burner. But it is important that you prove which is faulty - the ignition unit, or the spark lead - because changing the ignition unit is easy, but will be no good if the spark lead is faulty. Changing the spark lead is more complicated, so you must be sure that is the problem.

Changing the spark lead is a job for an engineer or a very keen DIYer. It's not rocket science, but you are dealing with gas and fumes, so you must either be competent, or don't bother.

NOTE - the drawing below is for a double burner fire - the single burner models are the same in principle.

The sequence of events is as follows. Remove the chimney pipe - item 1. Undo the lock ring and pull the pipe away. There is a silicone O ring that seals the joint. This a safety critical component and should be replaced - order one at the same time you order a new spark lead - items 8 and 42. Disconnect the gas feed pipe - if you don't know how to do this safely and competently, then you shouldn't even be attempting the job. Then remove the screws that attach the fire base plate 12 to the wooden plinth. The whole fire should now lift up and out. You are looking for the burner box 44 that protrudes down into the open below the van - either a single or a double depending on your fire. Clip 46 releases the cover and gets you inside. Then it should be obvious where the spark electrode 41 is, and trace its feed wire 42. You should see where the problem is - quite often I have seen the wire just crumble to dust. You can make your own DIY wire if you are competent, or order one. Make sure you have a good spark before re-assembly.

​Also take a good look at the burner assembly 37 - they are not expensive and it is usually a good idea to replace the whole thing if you are ordering spares​. Have a good dust and general clean up while you are in there.

Once you get the thing in bits, it's all reasonably logical. The awkward and dangerous bits are the chimney joint and the gas connection. The silicon O ring is essential to be properly placed - it stops fumes from escaping the joint and into the van. And as already stated, the gas connection is an obvious point of danger if not done properly. Do not undo and redo gas pipes unless you have learnt the proper protocols.

Solar update - big 300w panels ...

The new(ish) big panels of 300w+ - there are several available from Bimble at great prices - offer serious power for full timers and heavy users. The 30amp Tracer MPPT from Bimble is an excellent controller.

I replaced 3 120w older panels with a single 320w big panel that covers the whole of the front section of my roof on my classic S700 and the results have been fantastic. 22 amps has been the max so far in what has been an average summer in a northern latitude. But what has impressed me the most is that recent panels have a much better low light performance. I have been seeing 10 amps under cloud! I also recently installed a 320w panel on another guys 700 and that has also been a success.

But you need a big battery to store all that power, and you need to need to use it, otherwise it's overkill. With everything on - computers and TVs - all day and evening, we consume about 10amps/hour. On a bright day, even in autumn, a 300w panel will cope with that nicely. I would suggest that 200 to 400ah battery capacity is about right. I use the Odyssey PC1800 which is brilliant.

With Bimble selling 300w panels around £140 and the controller costing around £140, plus cable and bits, a high power solar system has never been cheaper - as long as you have the batteries to store it. I estimate our off grid time is about double what it was last year, with the added bonus of more power available in spring and autumn when the days are shorter.

The 3 and a half commonest Mercedes problems that can ruin your holiday.

Our beloved Mercs - the 309/310 and 409/410 pre 95 T1 Transporter chassis - are world renowned for being bombproof and good for a million. But they are not 100% perfect, neither are they maintenance free.

Over the last 17 years from my own experiences and being an active member on forums and Facebook groups, I have come to a conclusion that there are three and a half common problems that have the potential to bring a trip, or worse, a holiday, to a miserable stop. The first three are the cooling system, the gear selectors and the fuel delivery system ... and the half is the brakes - it's only half a problem with the brakes because usually they don't actually take you off the road, they just give you a fright!

All of these have been covered elsewhere in this blog, the purpose of this article is just to give a heads up to new and existing owners in case it ever happens to you.

Cooling system. 

All our vans are now over 20 years old and are usually still on their original radiators and fans. The radiators get clogged up inside and out and their efficiency reduces over the years, and the visco coupled fan gets tired and doesn't cut in when it should. Because we live in a cool country with not many mountains, you usually don't get to find out you have a problem until you are climbing up some Alpine pass in the middle of summer. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge. It it creeps up towards the red on a long hill, this is a sign your cooling system isn't 100%. A quick fix is to have all the accumulated crud blown out of the rad with a high pressure airline. This will often alleviate the problem - temporarily. Ultimately a new radiator and/or a new visco coupling mechanism may be needed to get the van back to normal performance. A system flush and fluid replacement can also work wonders. DO NOT run a Merc engine into the red or boil it over - you will crack the head and worse. The temp gauge is usually accurate - It will run to just under the red zone, but don't go there if you can possibly avoid it. Your radiator cap is also likely to be original, so if you have any cooling work done, always have a new rad cap and thermostat fitted. The water pump can also go on high mileage vans. Hoses rarely cause a problem, but should be checked.

Gear selectors.

Between the bottom of the gear stick and the gearbox is a system of rods and levers that select the gears. These can work loose, and bushes get worn leading to gear selection problems. It is rarely terminal - I have never known a Merc manual box to actually break - it is always the selectors. There are a couple of articles on here about it. Search for "gearbox".

Fuel system.

There is a gauze filter on the bottom of the fuel lifter in the tank, an inline filter between the tank and the main filter/pump, a breather pipe on the top of the tank, and the main fuel filter itself. All need maintenance and cleaning, and often have had no maintenance for 20 years. If the van is underpowered, especially on hills, or even just stutters and stops, then it is usually the fuel system. It is rarely the pump or injectors. This is a very common problem. Search for "fuel filter" for more info.

Brakes.

The back brakes on the Mercs do most of the heavy braking, especially on the 409/410 bigger vans. They need regular checking and maintenance, especially the "load balancing sensor". You don't know you have a problem until you have an "Italian Job" moment coming down 28 hairpins on the St Gotthard Pass and the pedal hits the floor. If the back brakes are not up to scratch then the fronts get overworked, get hot, and boil the fluid. Patience and engine braking will get you down safely and to a garage. Many of our vans are still on the original fluid. In extreme cases use the handbrake, which is mechanical not hydraulic. Again, this is a problem that usually manifests itself when you are a long way from the M6 - usually on holiday in the Alps or Pyrenees. Search for "brakes".



These blog articles are for guidance - I am not a qualified mechanic. There are a few other Merc related issues, but these are the main ones - not just in my own experience, but in reading the forums and blogs.

Other problems are squeaking fan belt tensioners, leaky vacuum pipes and the occasional broken fan belt - carry a spare (they are a pig to fit). Vans with over 200k can expect to need a new water pump eventually.

Have I missed anything? Please comment below.

Oyster 1 satellite dish upgrade using Zeniatech modification

Oyster 1 satellite dish upgrade using Zeniatech modification

The Oyster 1 motorhome satellite system was the system of choice in the 1990s. It was built to last, and is still to be found on the roofs of many classic motorhomes today. The problem is though - they no longer work! Well they do, after a fashion, because the dish can still be positioned manually, but this is a fiddly job. 

The situation was created when the Astra satellite people upgraded from the old analogue TV system to digital, and they changed the way the satellites identified themselves. Unfortunately for the Oyster 1 this rendered them obsolete overnight, and there were many many really angry customers as a result. Oyster did everything they could to make the best of the situation, but even the most basic modifications they could come up with cost well over £500. In the end many owners decided to scrap them and buy new, and vowed never to buy Oyster again. This was a a bit unfair on Oyster, as they had no warning from Astra about what was going to happen, as this would have been commercially sensitive information. Such is the cost of progress.

I acquired a 1993 Hymer that had an Oyster 1 fitted. I knew it wouldn’t work automatically, and the seller said so - so I basically got it for nothing. But I knew it would work after a fashion. I changed the LNB for a more modern one for £40 and bought a cheap digital satellite box from Maplin. Using the compass built into my Iphone, and a satellite location app from the app store, I soon learned how to position the dish manually. But it takes about 10 minutes, so I only ever used it when something big was on like a cup final or Wimbledon, and in an area where I couldn’t get normal Freeview from the local TV transmitter. I also knew it would be useful when traveling in Europe, because the Oyster 1 dish is quite big, and would receive Freesat down as far as the south of France.

But I always thought at the back of my mind, that it should be possible to modify the control unit and bring it back to life. Sure enough a year or so later, I read about a guy in Ireland who had done just that, and I immediately entered into correspondence with him, and a few weeks later I had his kit delivered at a cost of €200 inc delivery. It comprises of a small box about the size of half a paperback book, and it simply plugs into the existing RJ45 network interface socket on the Oyster 1. It has a display and a keyboard, but the unit comes pre-configured for Astra 2. It can be re-programmed if Astra make any future changes. It can also be programmed to seek out other satellites, such as Hotbird or Eutelsat, which is useful if you are a long way abroad.

Well I love things that work straight out of the box, and this one was an absolute joy. We are talking about 20 year old equipment here - it hadn't auto seeked a satellite for over 10 years! I just plugged the new into the Oyster box and pressed the on switch. The dish started to whirr on the roof, it did a few 360s and then locked on. BBC1 HD appeared immediately on my TV. Since then it has worked without a fault. I get a rock solid signal - even occasionally when trees are in the way, which I think is down to the fact that the dish is quite big by modern standards.

I had the added bonus that although my Samsung TV was HD ready, it did not have a Freeview HD tuner. It could only display HD pictures from an external source such as a DVD player or an HD sat receiver. I had never had HD TV in the van before and I was well impressed with the picture.

But there was another slight problem. Although I had access to over 200 Freesat channels from Astra 2, plus at least another 300 or so of other weird channels, organising them was a pain, and worse still, the EPG would only display “now and next”. This was because my cheap Maplins satellite receiver was a generic unit, not a dedicated Freesat box. After a bit of research online I discovered that in order to have a full UK EPG, similar to what I was used to on terrestrial Freeview, I would need a dedicated Freesat box. So I decided to ditch the Maplins receiver (it will be useful abroad in the future) and I ordered the entry level Humax Freesat box for £95. A Freesat box is programmed to receive only the UK Freesat channels, and ignores the rest, and it has a full 7 day EPG. It is a joy to use - even better the than the Sky+ box I used to have when I lived in a house!

I am very impressed! The box will connect to the internet, so if I have a wifi connection, I can play BBC Iplayer and a whole host of other on demand services. I have also plugged an old 500gb USB hard drive into the back of it, and that gives me a live pause and record facility. Of course this is of limited use in a motorhome, because the dish will not be up while driving, and so recording will not always be possible, but I can take this into consideration. It is a very useful facility to have. And it is also extremely useful to have live pause when watching TV.

So for about £300 I now have a pretty sophisticated satellite HD TV system in the van, with recording and live pause. Of course this is no different to most modern systems, so I am not claiming anything special, but what is particularly satisfying is to be re-commissioning what was an obsolete piece of kit, and in particular, an extremely well built piece of kit. Modern van satellite systems are not cheap!

If you have one of these old Oyster 1 dishes on the roof of your van, you now have the opportunity to bring it back to life. I am well chuffed.

Contact - John Gibbons of Zeniatech - zeniatech@gmail.com

Technical footnote. Sophisticated users can install dual or even quad LNBs to enable multiple recordings. If you pay more, then you can buy Freesat boxes with built in HDs up to a Terabyte. If you are streaming TV over the internet, make sure you are aware of how much data you will use and what your tariff is. I also have seen some forum comments that you can use an old Sky+ box and get similar results.

Ahoy there

RONS TECHNICAL TIPS NO - "AHOY THERE!"

Caravan and Motorhome repair and accessory shops can be few and far between when you are in far away places (or Scotland!). 

But don't forget that boats use many of the components in our vans - or very similar. Boatyard people also will have the skills and understanding to try and help you out.

So if you are near the coast, or a big lake - a lake big enough to have plenty of boat activity - then head for the nearest town and search out the local boatyard. They always have bits and pieces - "chandlery" and fibreglass skills.

In the UK, and countries like Holland, Germany and France which have extensive canal networks, you will also find boatyards and repair places inland - so check your maps for canals.

In an emergency there is a good chance that a boatyard can sort you out or effect a running repair. They will also know the best local places for diesel work - most boats have diesel engines.

Just don't park on the slipway - especially if it's green!

Mifi

RONS TECHNICAL TIPS NO. MIMO WIFI MIFI WIBBLE 

MIFI'S AND ANTENNAS EXPLAINED FOR MOBILE DATA

There are two types of Mifi device - those with sockets for an external antenna, and those without. Those without are in the majority, and they rely on a built in antenna. The built in antenna is identical to those used in normal phones, so a mifi with an internal antenna should perform the same as a normal phone, for data, on the same network. This is good enough for most users. The networks claim that they have over 90% coverage, but we all know that out in the country there is always a chance that you won't get a signal. Sometimes you will be in a "fringe" area, where the signal is weak, and sometimes you can improve things by moving the device around - putting it near a window, or higher up. I have often managed to get a signal on a mifi device by velcroing it to the rooflight!

Radio waves travel in straight lines, so it is common knowledge that you get much better reception if your antenna is high up and unobstructed. That's why TV antennas are mounted up on the chimney, and commercial radio masts are located on high masts on top of hills.

So for those people who want the maximum performance from a mifi device, adding an external antenna can make a big difference. In fact it is a very big difference, because an external antenna is much bigger and more efficient. Generally speaking an external antenna will give you at least 10 times more signal than an internal one. However it will not guarantee you a signal everywhere. Some places just don't have any coverage - full stop. But many places have a weak signal - too weak for an internal antenna, but no problem for a big external antenna.

But it's not cheap, and no compromises can be made - approx £40 to £80 for the antenna, plus fitting. Coax cable has to be run into the van from the antenna, and properly weatherproofed. Coax cable also loses a proportion of the signal per metre, so it's length should be minimised. Because the antenna sockets on mifi units are so small, they can be very fiddly, so it is best to locate the unit in a place where it will not be moved very much.

You will also come across something called MIMO, which stands for Multiple Input Multiple Output (open loop spatial multiplexing). This is a system where two antennas are used for simultaneous transmit and receive, resulting in better performance. That's why most mifis have two antenna sockets, and most external antennas have two coax leads - one for each socket. There isn't much alternative nowadays - it's nearly all MIMO - that's why most external antennas are plastic domes - there are 2 antennas inside.

What to go for is entirely up to you - it's basically the same as the old portable tellys. You would get a decent picture if you were lucky, sometimes a grainy one, and quite often none at all. If you then plugged in an external antenna up on the roof or on a pole outside, then the picture suddenly went perfect.

What I like about my external antenna is that it is always on - no setting up. The van has wifi all the time, which feeds a laptop, two phones, two tablets and a GPS. If we are in the middle of nowhere, and there is no signal, we just accept it, because we know that we have an excellent antenna, so we don't have to bother messing about about trying to reposition devices for better reception. 

Mifi devices with antenna sockets are a little more expensive, and those that have their own display are preferable, because you can can see at a glance if you have a signal. Quite often just moving the van from one pitch to another can make a difference - radio waves can act in very strange ways, because they tend to reflect off rocks and buildings, so moving the van just a few feet can make a difference.

Suitable mifi units with antenna sockets include the following - 

HUAWEI: E5372, E5377, E5786, E8278, E392, E398, 5577, B315, E5186
VODAFONE: R210 R212 R215 R216 K5150
ZTE: MF821 MF823 MF93E

This is not a complete list. Personally I use Huawei, and have found them to offer good value for money.

RON'S TECHNICAL TIPS NO. AH AH STAYIN ALIVE STAYIN ALIVE

RON'S TECHNICAL TIPS NO. AH AH STAYIN ALIVE STAYIN ALIVE

INVERTERS + Hairdryers, Straighteners and Toasters. (And laptops).

Most people know that you can buy an inverter that will convert 12v van power into 240v home power, so you can use your stuff from home - phone chargers, laptop etc. All very useful if you are not hooked up.

But if you do buy an inverter you MUST be aware of the basic rules. It's not like at home where you can plug anything in and not think about it.

There is a big nuclear power station somewhere supplying your power at home - lots of it - almost unlimited amounts, but in your van all you have is a small battery. 

If I try and explain volts and watts, some of you may start to nod off, so I'll just try and sum it up in a couple of statements.

Converting 12v to 240v through an inverter can take a LOT of battery power.

Anything that generates heat - hairdryers, straighteners, toasters, will put a BIG strain on a battery. To run appliances like this you need a proper proffesional install - don't DIY unless you know exactly what you are doing. Badly wired inverter installations can destroy you and your van.

Low power devices, phone chargers, speakers are fine, laptops are in the middle. For your low power devices, a 200w inverter, more or less, will be fine. 

Finally PLEASE don't use your cigar socket to power an inverter. I know many people do and get away with it, but it's basically wrong! Cigar sockets are connected to the vehicle battery, not the leisure battery, and too much use and the van won't start. Nothing more than a phone or a GPS should ever be plugged into a cigar socket.

All but the tiniest of inverters should be directly wired to the battery and properly fused.

PS All the above only applies if you want 240v mains power when NOT hooked up. If you are hooked up to a campsite - then just carry on as normal!

For more info read 12v for Dummies in the file section, or on my blog here.

12v leisure battery systems for total dummies!

Motorhome 12v basics for beginners. I get lots of questions on Classic Hymers about power - so here we go! First you need to grasp t...

HYMERS700.BLOGSPOT.COM

Headlamp adjusters

RON'S TECHNICAL TIPS number 3.14 pi ...

If you want to get your Mercedes (and others) headlight adjuster working again, here is the kit to do it. Bookmark it!
http://www.ebay.de/…/Elekt-Leuchtweitenregulie…/201545448425

And here is the amusingly machine translated description - I believe that "electricity thieves" refers to Scotchlok connectors, the use of which is a criminal offence in Germany...(well it should be!)

Electrical LWR Conversion Kit Mercedes T1 T2 Bremer
MB 208 MB 308 MB 410 MB 309 MB 310 MB 313
Hymer S Class S 550 S 700
Conversion kit from hydraulic to electric headlamp leveling.

As simple as NEVER !!!!!!!!!
Connect Only together Insert, and Plus & mass.

And all through the pre-assembled wiring harness.

Now with the use of the original knob
which keeps the optics in your vehicle 100% guaranteed.

We do not use electricity thieves !!!

Plus is taken in the fuse box of the low beam control, minus the star distributor under the dashboard

The leveling control is suitable for:

Mercedes T1 Bremer
Mercedes T2 Düsseldorf
MB 208
MB 308
MB 410
MB 309
MB 310
MB 313
Hymer S Class
Hymer Eriba S 550
Hymer Eriba S 700

For questions we are at your disposal.
Tel 06198-502296 e-mail:. Info@leuchtweiten-shop.de

This makes future heist in the main test,

HU Passed!

Here you can see the delivery ______________ use simply glue in the knob

The servo motors are a Swiss brand, have an aluminum shaft for receiving the ball head screws, are waterproof and have to adjust a manual adjustment knob at the back of the headlight basic setting.
Fittingly use for the Ducato 230, 280, 290, Volvo 440/460, Hymer, Mercedes all models with hydraulic leveling control, Fiat all models with hydraulic LWR
Delivery:
2 x headlight range control motor ( new parts ) Modified on a CNC machine for different vehicle types.
1 x Round regulator ( new parts )
1 x use for the conversion original knob.
3 x distribution for cable brown, yellow, brown / yellow (original equipment quality)
2 x cable ties with mounting base adhesive.
3 x cable ties
4-sided color and of course PRINTED installation instructions with pictures and diagram what good is a PDF in the workshop or garage.

Installation is carried out in about 2-3 hrs. For the Artisan somewhat gifted. (Are they talking about us Peter Curry?!!)

We differ from others:
Because greed is not always Geil!
1. use the glue in the original knob!
2. servomotors are not open to cable to solder because Daduchus
leaks can occur.
3. It works with no electricity thieves because this cable be damaged!
4. Cable with three different colors 1mm Automotive OEM quality.
5. 2 x insulated terminals for + and ground terminal (see photo).
6. Cable ties and base adhesive.
7. Printed color installation instructions and no PDF I somehow self print needs.
Shipping: We only ship insured!

Shipping with DHL Paket in Germany for free.

For shipment delivery DHL +6.90 Euro

Delivery to the following countries: 14,90 Euro with DHL
Belgium, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France (except Guadeloupe, Martinique, French Guiana, Réunion), Great Britain (except Channel Islands of Jersey and Guernsey), Ireland, Italy (except San Marino, Livigno, Vatican City), Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg Monaco, Netherlands, Austria, Poland, Portugal (except Azores and Madeira), Sweden, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain (except Ceuta, Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma, El Hierro, Melilla), Czech Republic , Hungary.

Elekt.Leuchtweitenregulierung T1 T2 Bremer Düssel Mercedes 410D 208D Hymer S LWR

Elekt.Leuchtweitenregulierung T1 T2 Bremer Düssel Mercedes 410D 208D Hymer S LWR in Auto & Motorrad: Teile, Auto-Ersatz- & -Reparaturteile, Lichter &…

EBAY.DE

Ron's Technical Tips number 666 - What is the number of your beast?

Ron's Technical Tips number 666 - What is the number of your beast?

Think before you buy that 30 year old classic!

After reading our venerable leader's "Buyer Beware" post, I thought I would flesh it out a bit with some thoughts on buying old classics, especially with those in mind who are looking to buy one day.

Grooving around in a 30 year old van, attracting waves and oohs and ahs is cool and desirable, but it can come at considerable cost to your wallet.

There is nothing wrong with throwing caution to the wind and taking on a van that ends up costing far more than it's "book" value, as long as you know it and are not negatively surprised.

But if you are a non technical person with no toolbox, who relies on paid skillspersons to do the work, then beware - the costs can not just escalate, but skyrocket.

The problem with Classic Hymers is that they have attracted a "best of breed" moniker, which sometimes leads folk to think that they are bombproof, and that they can go out and spend five grand on a 1986 model and cruise off round Europe in comfort for a year. It just doesn't work that way. To stay on the road, a van has to pass it's MOT, and that's all. Old vans are often lightly used, and stored under cover, so they tend to stay on the road many years - decades even - than their commercial counterparts. But the fact that it has survived 30 years doesn't mean that it is fault free. For the MOT it has to have lights, stop and go, plus a few other minor bits and pieces! The rest of the van can be a cardboard box for all the MOT tester is concerned.

If you want a 30+ year old van, you have to do the maths - purchase price plus any work needed. If this comes to a lot more than what you could buy a younger van in better nick for, then the difference is basically "art" money - money that you are willing or not to pay for pleasurable or aesthetic reasons. And there is nothing wrong with this as long as your eyes are wide open. People spend thousand renovating old stuff, just for the sheer pleasure of it.

But if you are on a limited budget, with no technical skills, but the style and ethos appeals to you, or if you are just looking for a bargain, then go very carefully, especially if buying from a dealer. From a dealer, old vans will be trade-ins which he wants rid of, not necessarily knackered, but he just wants his money asap and the van off his forecourt. bargains can had, but also dogs can be bought.

You also have to know the model range as well. There are massive differences between say, a S660 Mercedes of 1985, and the same model from 1995. It's a huge difference, and as very rough rule of thumb, you will pay £1000 more for every year. The 1985 model will probably need a fair amount of work, will be 20% slower, and 30% noisier, than the 95 model. So it is very important to know the range, and where your particular desires are located. You will hear talk on here of "Whiteys", "Brownies" and "Goldies" - yet they can all have the same model number. But in reality they are all quite different animals, and all have their quirks, good points and bad points. But the main thing to remember is that a 1985 model is not just an older cheaper version of the same van from 1995.

Because it is my job to give advice, I have to stick my neck out, and usually it gets chopped off. But I am going to suggest that nobody should consider buying a pre 1990 Classic Hymer unless they either have the skills to do their own work, or at least the basic knowledge to specify and identify what needs doing. On pre 1990's I would suggest as a very rough rule of thumb, being prepared to spend another 50% of the purchase price. Obviously these years and amounts are extremely rough guidelines, but they are guided by what I have witnessed on this group and others, over 15 years.

For 1990 to 1995 models, then the situation is as you would expect a bit better. Allowing 25% is probably enough, and if the price is at the top end of the estimate, it is not unheard of to drive one of these away, and not spend more than a few hundred quid on it in the next few years. It is my humble opinion that people who want a classic with as low potential maintenance and nasty shocks, should look to the 5 or 6 years before 95. That is only a guideline, exceptions regularly do happen.

Post 95, when the new shape came in, these are generally in good nick, unless they have been abused, and you can generally regard these as "normal" motorhomes, subject to normal inspection, and each model will have a "book" price. And before the "yoghurt pot" crowd get on my case, let me say that I am a huge fan, of late 90's Hymers, because they had the same quality of interior on newer, smoother, faster chassis. I harbour a secret desire to own an S820 one day!

Finally - just as in almost everything in life, there are exceptions to the rule. So what I am saying here is a few musings on the subject. I know a guy who picked up a mid 80's van in great condition for ridiculous money. There are still Hymers around that have been sat on drives not being used for years, just waiting for the sad day when an estate has to be finally sold. There are also still many Hymers covered in birdshit in yards all over Europe, just waiting for the right guy/gal to come along and devote the next year of their life to it.

It really is no different to the classic VW or classic car game.

Finally - beware of Ebay and Gumtree. Never part with money before viewing....NEVER! And if you do decide to invest the time and fuel on a 500mile round trip, do so on the basis that it could be a total waste of time, but travel hopefully because it could, just could, be a gem.

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EDIT - After reading the comments folk might think I'm trying to put them off! Far from it! A ballerina can refurbish a knackered old Hymer, with the right attitude. My comments are based on the fact that Classic Hymers have such a great reputation that people would be forgiven for thinking occasionally that they are all perfect, at any age - they are not, but are better than all the rest!

Breakdown Insurance

You just never know what you are going to get with breakdown companies. Especially in a motorhome. The AA and the RAC are just set up for cars and small vans. Anything bigger, they subcontract to a local, and they can vary from awesome to awful.

I know that ADAC have a great reputation, and I have heard more good stories about them than bad, but if you are usually in the UK I think it just adds an extra layer of complexity. However they do seem to be good if you are touring europe. I was once with a couple in Morocco in a van who had terrible problems, and I remember the service and support they got from ADAC in Germany was awesome.

Quite a few owners in the UK, myself included, use Britannia, which is also known as LV. Having had problems with size in the past, I have always checked with them that size isn't a problem, by clearly asking for confirmation on the phone - they record everything, and I have never had a problem. The last time I needed a recovery they sent out a 20 tonner! They also appear to me to have a decent control room and reasonably well trained staff.

I am also not a fan of breakdown cover that is bundled with insurance. Quite often the cover is inadequate or size restricted, and also there can be problems of communication - there is often an extra layer of people from the insurance company claims office between you and the breakdown company. All the insurance companies ever do is just do a deal with a breakdown company and take a commission off the top. However I do accept that some bundled deals are very attractive, especially for 3.5 ton vans.

I was with Saga for years, and although they got there in the end, I do remember occasions where it took a while to even identify myself as a policy holder, before they even took the details of the breakdown. With Britannia, they don't care who you are insured with, you just give them your number and away you go.

Other things to remember are that some bundle deals have age restrictions, so it is absolutely important when setting up or renewing cover that you clearly state the size and weight and age of the van, and also check how many days abroad you are allowed if that is important to you.

After years with Saga I decided that I could do a lot better elsewhere. I ended up insuring both my car and my van with the local NFU office, and I arranged my own breakdown cover with Britannia. The total is about £300 a year, and they haven't asked for an increase for 3 years. From what I have seen from the experiences of others, £300 a year for breakdown and insurance is about average for an old Hymer.

Fridge not performing well on gas in summer?

Come the summer, that's when classic fridges start to fail! Quite often it is the performance on gas that suffers. The reason for this is that the gas system is a more complex mechanism than the electric one. The 240v mechanism is a simple heating element in the chimney, and basically it either works at peak efficiency for life, or it just fails completely and is easy to diagnose.

The gas system on the other hand relies on the gas being metered through the tiny hole of a jet, and then burning cleanly in the burner. There is also an ignition system, and a safety thermo couple, all of which can go wrong.

But the commonest fault in summer is that the fridge simply doesn't perform as well on gas as it does on 240v, and this is a reasonably sure sign that the gas system is not generating as much heat as it should, or that the heat is not being convected away fast enough because of the hot weather. A camper 3 way fridge is a very different animal to a domestic compressor fridge - ambient temperature and heat movement is much more important.

If it was working reasonably ok before the hot weather, then that's a definite clue. A small computer fan mounted on the inside of the top vent, blowing out, is a great improvement. Also try and see what side of the van the sun is shining on - it gets really hot in there - any sort of sun shade you can rig up is a good temporary fix. The other thing to do is to check the fridge early in the morning - if it has cooled nicely overnight, then that's another clue. Repositioning the van in the shade is often a good idea if it's possible.

If you are still sure that it is working better on mains than gas, then you need a burner service, to make sure that there is a decent flame. Usually the commonest fault is that debris is resting in the burner and interfering with the flame. That's why many people are suggesting blowing out with an airline, but for this to be effective you really need to take the tin box off from around the burner. The next most likely cause of a low flame is smaller debris becoming lodged in the jet, which has a tiny hole in it, which restricts the flow of gas. In order to get at the jet to blow it with air, you need to remove the gas feed pipe, and on no account should you touch the jet with anything metallic like a pin - the hole in the jet is precisely engineered and enlarging it by accident leads to carbon monoxide tragedy. 

Another easy check is to remove the tin box around the burner, and then in the dark, examine the flame - you just can't see it during daylight, but you can in the dark! You are looking for a mainly blue flame at least the size (but NOT the same yellow colour!) as a candle flame - about 30mm. It should also be making a nice gentle sound, like an old fashioned gas light (if you are old enough!). You should also feel heat coming out of the flue at the top. A visual check of the flame at night is often a really good idea, especially if you do it before and after cleaning or service work.

There are plenty of DIY instructions online, but if in any doubt go get it done professionally.

Fridges in general ...

You can't expect too much from a 25 year old fridge. It is amazing that they last so long. I have lost count of the number of times I have seen people come online with fridge problems in summer. British summers are not particularly hot, so even a fridge in need of a gas service will work OK in spring. But as soon as the temperature gets hot - up above 25 and 30, then the fridge just won't cope. It's even worse if you are heading abroad on a well planned and anticipated summer holiday. Nothing ruins it worse than a complaining fridge. So try and get your fridge checked before you go, or at least keep an eye on it the first hot weekend you get at home.

Don't load a basket of new shopping into an empty fridge and then switch it to 12v for the journey, and expect it to be cold when you get there. Have the fridge pre-cooled on gas the day before. Only load it with stuff pre-cooled from the supermarket fridges, and keep ambient food to a minimum. The 12v system is not as powerful as 240v or gas - it's only for maintaining the temperature while travelling, not for cooling or freezing. 

Give an old fridge every helping hand you can - those blue plastic freezer blocks that you freeze and put into cool boxes are a great idea. You can freeze them at home, and put some into the fridge when you load it up. You can also re-freeze them overnight in the fridges tiny ice box, if you are lucky, and then put them in the main compartment during the day. Campsites will also re-freeze them for you.

Keep your visits to the fridge short and sweet. While you are trying to choose between gin and tonic or rum and coke with the door open, you are losing cold!

Consider buying a new fridge! After 15 years and many episodes of learning and frustration, I finally chucked in the towel a few years ago in an Austrian heatwave and bought a new fridge. It was eyewateringly expensive - a thousand euros. But I discovered that technology has moved on. The insulation is thinner, so the walls are thinner and the interior is bigger. It even makes ice - solid cubes of it, rather than pools of water with a bit of ice on top. It is so good that we have to turn it down in cooler weather. If you use your van a lot, it is a good investment, and should last another 20 years.

(Note for Classic Hymer owners - pre 95 Hymers have 50mb gas pressure - modern fridges are now 30mb - you MUST have a pressure reducer fitted if you buy a new fridge)

Grimacing Hymer Syndrome - Front Bumper Misaligned

Many classic Hymers end up looking like this.

What has happened is that the bumper has had a small collision, which has bent the mounting brackets, and moved the bumper up an inch or so, but not damaged the bumper - they are quite strong. It's not just a problem with 700's you will see many Merc classics with a similar grim expression! The remedy is quite easy, but needs tools and basic mechanical skills.

All you need to do is lie on your back and look under the front of the van, and you will see that the bumper is mounted to the front sub frame of the van with two brackets. If you look closely you will see that the bolts holding the brackets have oval holes which allow for a certain amount of adjustment. It is here that the metal has bent slightly, or the bolts have slipped in the holes. Either way the remedy is to loosen the bolts and straighten the bracket and adjust the whole thing so that the van is smiling again. It's a lot easier to do than it is to describe in words - once you see how the bumper is fixed by the brackets, it's pretty easy to work out what is needed.

Also note that on many vans, at the end of the bumper near the front wheel arches is a screw attaching the end of the bumper to the wheel arch. This screw is more of a support and adjustment than a structural mounting, but you need to know it's there.

It's an hours work for a competent mechanic. You need a socket set and spanners and a hammer. The bolts may be caked in corrosion or underseal or old age. They may have to be destroyed to get them off - but they are a standard size and easy to replace.

The take away think to remember is that despite appearances, the hardware mounting the bumper to the van is extremely simple and easy to service and adjust, unlike the wildly expensive moulded bumpers on modern cars and vans. So don't be frightened of it! 4 bolts and 2 screws!

Question - what would you rather have in a high mileage van?

Question - what engine would you rather have in a high mileage van?

Obviously, as a Merc owner I am biased, but here is my attempt to be as least biased as possible!

I don't think it's too unfair to say that when it comes to very high mileage - 250k and above for example - Mercs are probably a better bet. The old Mercs are famous for their longevity, not just the engines but the drivetrain - the manual gearboxes seem to go for ever. It is no co-incidence that the reason you never see pre 95 mercs on our roads is that they have mostly been exported to Africa, where they are still running. In Morocco, almost every van is a 5 cylinder pre 95 Merc - hugely overloaded, looking completely wrecked, but just going on and on and on. I know guys in the UK and EU who make a living from searching out old Mercs and shipping them out to Africa. They don't do that with any other make that I know of! Another reason is that they are relatively easy to fix - they are the good old fashioned traditional design - in-line engine, gearbox, propshaft rear axle driven wheels. Front wheel drive vans tend to be harder to fix because everything is crammed under the bonnet. Old Mercs also have a reputation for taking abuse. If badly maintained, they tend to moan and groan and whine but they rarely explode or fail catastrophically (although it can and does happen - it just seems to happen less than with others).

It is also worth considering that every old make has its "features" and reputation for common faults. Here are one or two - based on what I have read and picked up over the years. Mercs - over the years the fuel system gets clogged, leading to loss of power and sometimes complete breakdown. Usually fixed by changing filters and cleaning the fuel tank. Mercs will also overheat, especially on long mountain passes. This is usually dues to radiators clogged with muck and or faulty fan. Mercs often lose gears, leading to owners thinking the box is broken, but in reality it is the selector mechanism, which hardly ever gets maintained. It's an easy fix. Fiat family - the commonest and most famous problem is with fifth gear - it seems to wear out and break easily. It is a very well documented problem. It is critical to maintain the correct gearbox oil level. The fix is easy, and quite cheap, but only to a mechanic who is familiar with the problem. Whole gearboxes have been replaced at great expense, when all that was needed was a new gear and some knowledge. Fiat family also can overheat on long hills - they have electric fans which can fail, but this is also an easy fix. There are others, but I think those are the main ones.

The other big thing is that Mercs are RWD and Fiats are FWD. FWD vans get stuck in the mud and wet grass far more easily than RWD vans. RWD is also better in the snow. That's a fact, and nothing to do with make - it's horses for courses. The other thing is that Fiat family vans have quite a wide range of engines, turbo and non turbo, and are generally faster, and more economical. For many people this is the clincher. The Mercs only have one engine - the 5 cylinder 95 HP non turbo, they are not fast, much happier at 55 than 70, and thirsty - 25 mpg max.

However in motorhomes, the duty cycle is a lot less than in their commercial counterparts. So it's not just about the engine and transmission. A commercial van will hit the road from new, and work hard for maybe 5 years - ten years max, and then will be worn out and scrapped. But during that time it will have been regularly serviced. Motorhomes are the opposite. They spend most of their time doing nothing, and then several weeks of intense activity. A 25 year old van with 100k on the clock has only done 4k a year - a commercial van will do over 50k or more a year - it's a huge difference! Commercial vans and trucks can and do clock up a million in 10 years, and this is what they are designed for. So the problem with motorhome use is not so much mechanical wear and tear, but age related, and standing around. Rubber gets perished, fluids get old, wiring harnesses get corroded - in fact it's a whole host of little problems, and some of them can be truly frustrating. Old vans of any make need quite a lot of TLC - you can't just treat them like modern cars, which hardly ever go wrong.

So service history becomes really important - any van, any make, over 20 yrs old, over 100k or 200k on the clock, with service history, is a great find. Unfortunately most service histories tend to end after a couple of owners, or after 10 years. This is one of the reasons why some people buy German vans from Germany - the Germans tend to keep their service histories bang up to date, and their TUV (MOT) system is much more rigorous than ours.

Finally, another thing to consider is - suitability. How handy are you? If you have experience of a particular make, or have friends who are, or a local garage who knows a particular make well, then it's daft not to take advantage of that. Similarly - what do you want a van for? If you want a van for UK holidays, weekends and festivals, and generally just a few weeks a year of traditional use, then again, it doesn't really matter what you have - cover yourself with a good breakdown policy to get you home, and just get on with enjoying your van. But if you intend to go on a big road trip around Europe and N Africa, and really clock up some miles and abuse, then it's a different equation. Both Mercedes and the Fiat family have extensive dealer and parts cover, so at the end of the day you just have go with your gut feelings.

My gut feeling is for Merc, and I have clocked up over 350k over 16 years in 3 separate vans and in some really heavy and rough use. Not without problems, but in all that time I have only ever actually broken down and had to be recovered twice. Once was a broken oil pump that was directly caused by a mechanics mistake during service, and the other was a broken alternator - I could have carried on to a garage if needed, but I didn't know that at the time, so chose recovery, as I was covered. I have had many other problems, including a new flywheel and clutch, over heating, gear selectors, brakes overheating, glow plugs and relay, but most of these have been fair wear and tear or bad maintenance, and I have limped on, sometimes for hundreds of miles.

In the spirit of fairness, I also know know many Fiat owners with a similar story ...

As they say on TV - the final choice is up to you.

RONS TECHNICAL TIPS NO. MIMO WIFI MIFI WIBBLE MIFI'S AND ANTENNAS EXPLAINED FOR MOBILE DATA

RONS TECHNICAL TIPS NO. MIMO WIFI MIFI WIBBLE 

MIFI'S AND ANTENNAS EXPLAINED FOR MOBILE DATA

There are two types of Mifi device - those with sockets for an external antenna, and those without. Those without are in the majority, and they rely on a built in antenna. The built in antenna is identical to those used in normal phones, so a mifi with an internal antenna should perform the same as a normal phone, for data, on the same network. This is good enough for most users. The networks claim that they have over 90% coverage, but we all know that out in the country there is always a chance that you won't get a signal. Sometimes you will be in a "fringe" area, where the signal is weak, and sometimes you can improve things by moving the device around - putting it near a window, or higher up. I have often managed to get a signal on a mifi device by velcroing it to the rooflight!

Radio waves travel in straight lines, so it is common knowledge that you get much better reception if your antenna is high up and unobstructed. That's why TV antennas are mounted up on the chimney, and commercial radio masts are located on high masts on top of hills.

So for those people who want the maximum performance from a mifi device, adding an external antenna can make a big difference. In fact it is a very big difference, because an external antenna is much bigger and more efficient. Generally speaking an external antenna will give you at least 10 times more signal than an internal one. However it will not guarantee you a signal everywhere. Some places just don't have any coverage - full stop. But many places have a weak signal - too weak for an internal antenna, but no problem for a big external antenna.

But it's not cheap, and no compromises can be made. Coax cable has to be run into the van from the antenna, and properly weatherproofed. Coax cable also loses a proportion of the signal per metre, so it's length should be minimised. Because the antenna sockets on mifi units are so small, they can be very fiddly, so it is best to locate the unit in a place where it will not be moved very much.

You will also come across something called MIMO, which stands for Multiple Input Multiple Output (open loop spatial multiplexing). This is a system where two antennas are used for simultaneous transmit and receive, resulting in better performance. That's why most mifis have two antenna sockets, and most external antennas have two coax leads - one for each socket. There isn't much alternative nowadays - it's nearly all MIMO - that's why most external antennas are plastic domes - there are 2 antennas inside.

What to go for is entirely up to you - it's basically the same as the old portable tellys. You would get a decent picture if you were lucky, sometimes a grainy one, and quite often none at all. If you then plugged in an external antenna up on the roof or on a pole outside, then the picture suddenly went perfect.

What I like about it is that it is always on - no setting up. The van has wifi all the time, which feeds a laptop, two phones, two tablets and a GPS. If we are in the middle of nowhere, and there is no signal, we just accept it, because we know that we have an excellent antenna, so we don't have to bother messing about about trying to reposition devices for better reception. 

Mifi devices with antenna sockets are a little more expensive, and those that have their own display are preferable, because you can can see at a glance if you have a signal. Quite often just moving the van from one pitch to another can make a difference - radio waves can act in very strange ways, because they tend to reflect off rocks and buildings, so moving the van just a few feet can make a difference.

Suitable mifi units with antenna sockets include the following - 

HUAWEI: E5372, E5573, E5377, E5786, E8278, E392, E398
VODAFONE: R210 R212 R215 R216 K5150
ZTE: MF821 MF823 MF93E

This is not a complete list. Personally I use Huawei, and have found them to offer good value for money.