Mifi

RONS TECHNICAL TIPS NO. MIMO WIFI MIFI WIBBLE 

MIFI'S AND ANTENNAS EXPLAINED FOR MOBILE DATA

There are two types of Mifi device - those with sockets for an external antenna, and those without. Those without are in the majority, and they rely on a built in antenna. The built in antenna is identical to those used in normal phones, so a mifi with an internal antenna should perform the same as a normal phone, for data, on the same network. This is good enough for most users. The networks claim that they have over 90% coverage, but we all know that out in the country there is always a chance that you won't get a signal. Sometimes you will be in a "fringe" area, where the signal is weak, and sometimes you can improve things by moving the device around - putting it near a window, or higher up. I have often managed to get a signal on a mifi device by velcroing it to the rooflight!

Radio waves travel in straight lines, so it is common knowledge that you get much better reception if your antenna is high up and unobstructed. That's why TV antennas are mounted up on the chimney, and commercial radio masts are located on high masts on top of hills.

So for those people who want the maximum performance from a mifi device, adding an external antenna can make a big difference. In fact it is a very big difference, because an external antenna is much bigger and more efficient. Generally speaking an external antenna will give you at least 10 times more signal than an internal one. However it will not guarantee you a signal everywhere. Some places just don't have any coverage - full stop. But many places have a weak signal - too weak for an internal antenna, but no problem for a big external antenna.

But it's not cheap, and no compromises can be made - approx £40 to £80 for the antenna, plus fitting. Coax cable has to be run into the van from the antenna, and properly weatherproofed. Coax cable also loses a proportion of the signal per metre, so it's length should be minimised. Because the antenna sockets on mifi units are so small, they can be very fiddly, so it is best to locate the unit in a place where it will not be moved very much.

You will also come across something called MIMO, which stands for Multiple Input Multiple Output (open loop spatial multiplexing). This is a system where two antennas are used for simultaneous transmit and receive, resulting in better performance. That's why most mifis have two antenna sockets, and most external antennas have two coax leads - one for each socket. There isn't much alternative nowadays - it's nearly all MIMO - that's why most external antennas are plastic domes - there are 2 antennas inside.

What to go for is entirely up to you - it's basically the same as the old portable tellys. You would get a decent picture if you were lucky, sometimes a grainy one, and quite often none at all. If you then plugged in an external antenna up on the roof or on a pole outside, then the picture suddenly went perfect.

What I like about my external antenna is that it is always on - no setting up. The van has wifi all the time, which feeds a laptop, two phones, two tablets and a GPS. If we are in the middle of nowhere, and there is no signal, we just accept it, because we know that we have an excellent antenna, so we don't have to bother messing about about trying to reposition devices for better reception. 

Mifi devices with antenna sockets are a little more expensive, and those that have their own display are preferable, because you can can see at a glance if you have a signal. Quite often just moving the van from one pitch to another can make a difference - radio waves can act in very strange ways, because they tend to reflect off rocks and buildings, so moving the van just a few feet can make a difference.

Suitable mifi units with antenna sockets include the following - 

HUAWEI: E5372, E5377, E5786, E8278, E392, E398, 5577, B315, E5186
VODAFONE: R210 R212 R215 R216 K5150
ZTE: MF821 MF823 MF93E

This is not a complete list. Personally I use Huawei, and have found them to offer good value for money.

RON'S TECHNICAL TIPS NO. AH AH STAYIN ALIVE STAYIN ALIVE

RON'S TECHNICAL TIPS NO. AH AH STAYIN ALIVE STAYIN ALIVE

INVERTERS + Hairdryers, Straighteners and Toasters. (And laptops).

Most people know that you can buy an inverter that will convert 12v van power into 240v home power, so you can use your stuff from home - phone chargers, laptop etc. All very useful if you are not hooked up.

But if you do buy an inverter you MUST be aware of the basic rules. It's not like at home where you can plug anything in and not think about it.

There is a big nuclear power station somewhere supplying your power at home - lots of it - almost unlimited amounts, but in your van all you have is a small battery. 

If I try and explain volts and watts, some of you may start to nod off, so I'll just try and sum it up in a couple of statements.

Converting 12v to 240v through an inverter can take a LOT of battery power.

Anything that generates heat - hairdryers, straighteners, toasters, will put a BIG strain on a battery. To run appliances like this you need a proper proffesional install - don't DIY unless you know exactly what you are doing. Badly wired inverter installations can destroy you and your van.

Low power devices, phone chargers, speakers are fine, laptops are in the middle. For your low power devices, a 200w inverter, more or less, will be fine. 

Finally PLEASE don't use your cigar socket to power an inverter. I know many people do and get away with it, but it's basically wrong! Cigar sockets are connected to the vehicle battery, not the leisure battery, and too much use and the van won't start. Nothing more than a phone or a GPS should ever be plugged into a cigar socket.

All but the tiniest of inverters should be directly wired to the battery and properly fused.

PS All the above only applies if you want 240v mains power when NOT hooked up. If you are hooked up to a campsite - then just carry on as normal!

For more info read 12v for Dummies in the file section, or on my blog here.

12v leisure battery systems for total dummies!

Motorhome 12v basics for beginners. I get lots of questions on Classic Hymers about power - so here we go! First you need to grasp t...

HYMERS700.BLOGSPOT.COM

Headlamp adjusters

RON'S TECHNICAL TIPS number 3.14 pi ...

If you want to get your Mercedes (and others) headlight adjuster working again, here is the kit to do it. Bookmark it!
http://www.ebay.de/…/Elekt-Leuchtweitenregulie…/201545448425

And here is the amusingly machine translated description - I believe that "electricity thieves" refers to Scotchlok connectors, the use of which is a criminal offence in Germany...(well it should be!)

Electrical LWR Conversion Kit Mercedes T1 T2 Bremer
MB 208 MB 308 MB 410 MB 309 MB 310 MB 313
Hymer S Class S 550 S 700
Conversion kit from hydraulic to electric headlamp leveling.

As simple as NEVER !!!!!!!!!
Connect Only together Insert, and Plus & mass.

And all through the pre-assembled wiring harness.

Now with the use of the original knob
which keeps the optics in your vehicle 100% guaranteed.

We do not use electricity thieves !!!

Plus is taken in the fuse box of the low beam control, minus the star distributor under the dashboard

The leveling control is suitable for:

Mercedes T1 Bremer
Mercedes T2 Düsseldorf
MB 208
MB 308
MB 410
MB 309
MB 310
MB 313
Hymer S Class
Hymer Eriba S 550
Hymer Eriba S 700

For questions we are at your disposal.
Tel 06198-502296 e-mail:. Info@leuchtweiten-shop.de

This makes future heist in the main test,

HU Passed!

Here you can see the delivery ______________ use simply glue in the knob

The servo motors are a Swiss brand, have an aluminum shaft for receiving the ball head screws, are waterproof and have to adjust a manual adjustment knob at the back of the headlight basic setting.
Fittingly use for the Ducato 230, 280, 290, Volvo 440/460, Hymer, Mercedes all models with hydraulic leveling control, Fiat all models with hydraulic LWR
Delivery:
2 x headlight range control motor ( new parts ) Modified on a CNC machine for different vehicle types.
1 x Round regulator ( new parts )
1 x use for the conversion original knob.
3 x distribution for cable brown, yellow, brown / yellow (original equipment quality)
2 x cable ties with mounting base adhesive.
3 x cable ties
4-sided color and of course PRINTED installation instructions with pictures and diagram what good is a PDF in the workshop or garage.

Installation is carried out in about 2-3 hrs. For the Artisan somewhat gifted. (Are they talking about us Peter Curry?!!)

We differ from others:
Because greed is not always Geil!
1. use the glue in the original knob!
2. servomotors are not open to cable to solder because Daduchus
leaks can occur.
3. It works with no electricity thieves because this cable be damaged!
4. Cable with three different colors 1mm Automotive OEM quality.
5. 2 x insulated terminals for + and ground terminal (see photo).
6. Cable ties and base adhesive.
7. Printed color installation instructions and no PDF I somehow self print needs.
Shipping: We only ship insured!

Shipping with DHL Paket in Germany for free.

For shipment delivery DHL +6.90 Euro

Delivery to the following countries: 14,90 Euro with DHL
Belgium, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France (except Guadeloupe, Martinique, French Guiana, Réunion), Great Britain (except Channel Islands of Jersey and Guernsey), Ireland, Italy (except San Marino, Livigno, Vatican City), Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg Monaco, Netherlands, Austria, Poland, Portugal (except Azores and Madeira), Sweden, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain (except Ceuta, Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma, El Hierro, Melilla), Czech Republic , Hungary.

Elekt.Leuchtweitenregulierung T1 T2 Bremer Düssel Mercedes 410D 208D Hymer S LWR

Elekt.Leuchtweitenregulierung T1 T2 Bremer Düssel Mercedes 410D 208D Hymer S LWR in Auto & Motorrad: Teile, Auto-Ersatz- & -Reparaturteile, Lichter &…

EBAY.DE

Ron's Technical Tips number 666 - What is the number of your beast?

Ron's Technical Tips number 666 - What is the number of your beast?

Think before you buy that 30 year old classic!

After reading our venerable leader's "Buyer Beware" post, I thought I would flesh it out a bit with some thoughts on buying old classics, especially with those in mind who are looking to buy one day.

Grooving around in a 30 year old van, attracting waves and oohs and ahs is cool and desirable, but it can come at considerable cost to your wallet.

There is nothing wrong with throwing caution to the wind and taking on a van that ends up costing far more than it's "book" value, as long as you know it and are not negatively surprised.

But if you are a non technical person with no toolbox, who relies on paid skillspersons to do the work, then beware - the costs can not just escalate, but skyrocket.

The problem with Classic Hymers is that they have attracted a "best of breed" moniker, which sometimes leads folk to think that they are bombproof, and that they can go out and spend five grand on a 1986 model and cruise off round Europe in comfort for a year. It just doesn't work that way. To stay on the road, a van has to pass it's MOT, and that's all. Old vans are often lightly used, and stored under cover, so they tend to stay on the road many years - decades even - than their commercial counterparts. But the fact that it has survived 30 years doesn't mean that it is fault free. For the MOT it has to have lights, stop and go, plus a few other minor bits and pieces! The rest of the van can be a cardboard box for all the MOT tester is concerned.

If you want a 30+ year old van, you have to do the maths - purchase price plus any work needed. If this comes to a lot more than what you could buy a younger van in better nick for, then the difference is basically "art" money - money that you are willing or not to pay for pleasurable or aesthetic reasons. And there is nothing wrong with this as long as your eyes are wide open. People spend thousand renovating old stuff, just for the sheer pleasure of it.

But if you are on a limited budget, with no technical skills, but the style and ethos appeals to you, or if you are just looking for a bargain, then go very carefully, especially if buying from a dealer. From a dealer, old vans will be trade-ins which he wants rid of, not necessarily knackered, but he just wants his money asap and the van off his forecourt. bargains can had, but also dogs can be bought.

You also have to know the model range as well. There are massive differences between say, a S660 Mercedes of 1985, and the same model from 1995. It's a huge difference, and as very rough rule of thumb, you will pay £1000 more for every year. The 1985 model will probably need a fair amount of work, will be 20% slower, and 30% noisier, than the 95 model. So it is very important to know the range, and where your particular desires are located. You will hear talk on here of "Whiteys", "Brownies" and "Goldies" - yet they can all have the same model number. But in reality they are all quite different animals, and all have their quirks, good points and bad points. But the main thing to remember is that a 1985 model is not just an older cheaper version of the same van from 1995.

Because it is my job to give advice, I have to stick my neck out, and usually it gets chopped off. But I am going to suggest that nobody should consider buying a pre 1990 Classic Hymer unless they either have the skills to do their own work, or at least the basic knowledge to specify and identify what needs doing. On pre 1990's I would suggest as a very rough rule of thumb, being prepared to spend another 50% of the purchase price. Obviously these years and amounts are extremely rough guidelines, but they are guided by what I have witnessed on this group and others, over 15 years.

For 1990 to 1995 models, then the situation is as you would expect a bit better. Allowing 25% is probably enough, and if the price is at the top end of the estimate, it is not unheard of to drive one of these away, and not spend more than a few hundred quid on it in the next few years. It is my humble opinion that people who want a classic with as low potential maintenance and nasty shocks, should look to the 5 or 6 years before 95. That is only a guideline, exceptions regularly do happen.

Post 95, when the new shape came in, these are generally in good nick, unless they have been abused, and you can generally regard these as "normal" motorhomes, subject to normal inspection, and each model will have a "book" price. And before the "yoghurt pot" crowd get on my case, let me say that I am a huge fan, of late 90's Hymers, because they had the same quality of interior on newer, smoother, faster chassis. I harbour a secret desire to own an S820 one day!

Finally - just as in almost everything in life, there are exceptions to the rule. So what I am saying here is a few musings on the subject. I know a guy who picked up a mid 80's van in great condition for ridiculous money. There are still Hymers around that have been sat on drives not being used for years, just waiting for the sad day when an estate has to be finally sold. There are also still many Hymers covered in birdshit in yards all over Europe, just waiting for the right guy/gal to come along and devote the next year of their life to it.

It really is no different to the classic VW or classic car game.

Finally - beware of Ebay and Gumtree. Never part with money before viewing....NEVER! And if you do decide to invest the time and fuel on a 500mile round trip, do so on the basis that it could be a total waste of time, but travel hopefully because it could, just could, be a gem.

=====

EDIT - After reading the comments folk might think I'm trying to put them off! Far from it! A ballerina can refurbish a knackered old Hymer, with the right attitude. My comments are based on the fact that Classic Hymers have such a great reputation that people would be forgiven for thinking occasionally that they are all perfect, at any age - they are not, but are better than all the rest!

Breakdown Insurance

You just never know what you are going to get with breakdown companies. Especially in a motorhome. The AA and the RAC are just set up for cars and small vans. Anything bigger, they subcontract to a local, and they can vary from awesome to awful.

I know that ADAC have a great reputation, and I have heard more good stories about them than bad, but if you are usually in the UK I think it just adds an extra layer of complexity. However they do seem to be good if you are touring europe. I was once with a couple in Morocco in a van who had terrible problems, and I remember the service and support they got from ADAC in Germany was awesome.

Quite a few owners in the UK, myself included, use Britannia, which is also known as LV. Having had problems with size in the past, I have always checked with them that size isn't a problem, by clearly asking for confirmation on the phone - they record everything, and I have never had a problem. The last time I needed a recovery they sent out a 20 tonner! They also appear to me to have a decent control room and reasonably well trained staff.

I am also not a fan of breakdown cover that is bundled with insurance. Quite often the cover is inadequate or size restricted, and also there can be problems of communication - there is often an extra layer of people from the insurance company claims office between you and the breakdown company. All the insurance companies ever do is just do a deal with a breakdown company and take a commission off the top. However I do accept that some bundled deals are very attractive, especially for 3.5 ton vans.

I was with Saga for years, and although they got there in the end, I do remember occasions where it took a while to even identify myself as a policy holder, before they even took the details of the breakdown. With Britannia, they don't care who you are insured with, you just give them your number and away you go.

Other things to remember are that some bundle deals have age restrictions, so it is absolutely important when setting up or renewing cover that you clearly state the size and weight and age of the van, and also check how many days abroad you are allowed if that is important to you.

After years with Saga I decided that I could do a lot better elsewhere. I ended up insuring both my car and my van with the local NFU office, and I arranged my own breakdown cover with Britannia. The total is about £300 a year, and they haven't asked for an increase for 3 years. From what I have seen from the experiences of others, £300 a year for breakdown and insurance is about average for an old Hymer.

Fridge not performing well on gas in summer?

Come the summer, that's when classic fridges start to fail! Quite often it is the performance on gas that suffers. The reason for this is that the gas system is a more complex mechanism than the electric one. The 240v mechanism is a simple heating element in the chimney, and basically it either works at peak efficiency for life, or it just fails completely and is easy to diagnose.

The gas system on the other hand relies on the gas being metered through the tiny hole of a jet, and then burning cleanly in the burner. There is also an ignition system, and a safety thermo couple, all of which can go wrong.

But the commonest fault in summer is that the fridge simply doesn't perform as well on gas as it does on 240v, and this is a reasonably sure sign that the gas system is not generating as much heat as it should, or that the heat is not being convected away fast enough because of the hot weather. A camper 3 way fridge is a very different animal to a domestic compressor fridge - ambient temperature and heat movement is much more important.

If it was working reasonably ok before the hot weather, then that's a definite clue. A small computer fan mounted on the inside of the top vent, blowing out, is a great improvement. Also try and see what side of the van the sun is shining on - it gets really hot in there - any sort of sun shade you can rig up is a good temporary fix. The other thing to do is to check the fridge early in the morning - if it has cooled nicely overnight, then that's another clue. Repositioning the van in the shade is often a good idea if it's possible.

If you are still sure that it is working better on mains than gas, then you need a burner service, to make sure that there is a decent flame. Usually the commonest fault is that debris is resting in the burner and interfering with the flame. That's why many people are suggesting blowing out with an airline, but for this to be effective you really need to take the tin box off from around the burner. The next most likely cause of a low flame is smaller debris becoming lodged in the jet, which has a tiny hole in it, which restricts the flow of gas. In order to get at the jet to blow it with air, you need to remove the gas feed pipe, and on no account should you touch the jet with anything metallic like a pin - the hole in the jet is precisely engineered and enlarging it by accident leads to carbon monoxide tragedy. 

Another easy check is to remove the tin box around the burner, and then in the dark, examine the flame - you just can't see it during daylight, but you can in the dark! You are looking for a mainly blue flame at least the size (but NOT the same yellow colour!) as a candle flame - about 30mm. It should also be making a nice gentle sound, like an old fashioned gas light (if you are old enough!). You should also feel heat coming out of the flue at the top. A visual check of the flame at night is often a really good idea, especially if you do it before and after cleaning or service work.

There are plenty of DIY instructions online, but if in any doubt go get it done professionally.

Fridges in general ...

You can't expect too much from a 25 year old fridge. It is amazing that they last so long. I have lost count of the number of times I have seen people come online with fridge problems in summer. British summers are not particularly hot, so even a fridge in need of a gas service will work OK in spring. But as soon as the temperature gets hot - up above 25 and 30, then the fridge just won't cope. It's even worse if you are heading abroad on a well planned and anticipated summer holiday. Nothing ruins it worse than a complaining fridge. So try and get your fridge checked before you go, or at least keep an eye on it the first hot weekend you get at home.

Don't load a basket of new shopping into an empty fridge and then switch it to 12v for the journey, and expect it to be cold when you get there. Have the fridge pre-cooled on gas the day before. Only load it with stuff pre-cooled from the supermarket fridges, and keep ambient food to a minimum. The 12v system is not as powerful as 240v or gas - it's only for maintaining the temperature while travelling, not for cooling or freezing. 

Give an old fridge every helping hand you can - those blue plastic freezer blocks that you freeze and put into cool boxes are a great idea. You can freeze them at home, and put some into the fridge when you load it up. You can also re-freeze them overnight in the fridges tiny ice box, if you are lucky, and then put them in the main compartment during the day. Campsites will also re-freeze them for you.

Keep your visits to the fridge short and sweet. While you are trying to choose between gin and tonic or rum and coke with the door open, you are losing cold!

Consider buying a new fridge! After 15 years and many episodes of learning and frustration, I finally chucked in the towel a few years ago in an Austrian heatwave and bought a new fridge. It was eyewateringly expensive - a thousand euros. But I discovered that technology has moved on. The insulation is thinner, so the walls are thinner and the interior is bigger. It even makes ice - solid cubes of it, rather than pools of water with a bit of ice on top. It is so good that we have to turn it down in cooler weather. If you use your van a lot, it is a good investment, and should last another 20 years.

(Note for Classic Hymer owners - pre 95 Hymers have 50mb gas pressure - modern fridges are now 30mb - you MUST have a pressure reducer fitted if you buy a new fridge)

Grimacing Hymer Syndrome - Front Bumper Misaligned

Many classic Hymers end up looking like this.

What has happened is that the bumper has had a small collision, which has bent the mounting brackets, and moved the bumper up an inch or so, but not damaged the bumper - they are quite strong. It's not just a problem with 700's you will see many Merc classics with a similar grim expression! The remedy is quite easy, but needs tools and basic mechanical skills.

All you need to do is lie on your back and look under the front of the van, and you will see that the bumper is mounted to the front sub frame of the van with two brackets. If you look closely you will see that the bolts holding the brackets have oval holes which allow for a certain amount of adjustment. It is here that the metal has bent slightly, or the bolts have slipped in the holes. Either way the remedy is to loosen the bolts and straighten the bracket and adjust the whole thing so that the van is smiling again. It's a lot easier to do than it is to describe in words - once you see how the bumper is fixed by the brackets, it's pretty easy to work out what is needed.

Also note that on many vans, at the end of the bumper near the front wheel arches is a screw attaching the end of the bumper to the wheel arch. This screw is more of a support and adjustment than a structural mounting, but you need to know it's there.

It's an hours work for a competent mechanic. You need a socket set and spanners and a hammer. The bolts may be caked in corrosion or underseal or old age. They may have to be destroyed to get them off - but they are a standard size and easy to replace.

The take away think to remember is that despite appearances, the hardware mounting the bumper to the van is extremely simple and easy to service and adjust, unlike the wildly expensive moulded bumpers on modern cars and vans. So don't be frightened of it! 4 bolts and 2 screws!