Friday, 3 July 2015

Smooth chair rotation

Tech Tip - rotating chairs.

Do you hear a grinding sound when you swivel in your captains chair? Have you sprayed and lubricated the mechanism, but to no avail?

If you get down there with a torch, you will see that the lever that you pull to unlock the chair from the driving position has a spring, and the spring pulls the metal rod into a notch in the baseplate when the chair is in the forward driving position - with a satisfying clunk! But when not in the driving position, the same spring pulls the rod onto the edge of the baseplate, and thats what causes the grinding noise. It is not unusual on a 20 yr old chair to see the rod almost worn through, and they can and do break off, needing a messy repair.

So try this - you see the spring? It hooks over a small pin on the back underside of the base plate - it's the work of seconds to unhook it. Now the rod is no longer under tension, and the grinding sound will lessen - a lot. But the rod is still under the force of gravity and is still rubbing against the edge of the baseplate - better, but not perfect.

Now take the loose end of the spring and hook it over the front edge of the baseplate - so it is now 180 degrees opposite to where it was. It is now holding the rod away from the edge. Now take a swivel - silence! If you still hear a sound then it's the ball bearings between the bases plates, but unlike the rod, lubrication here will make it near silent - but in my experience all the noise comes from the rod - it's bare metal on metal.

It is now just a matter of reconnecting the spring before setting off driving. Just add the job to your pre-drive checklist. - lock fridge, close rooflight, secure chair. 

I appreciate not all people will want the faffing around of this - but if you spend a lot of time in the van, perched on the captains chair, working on the table, then you will be very happy to be suddenly swivelling in silence - I know I was! Once you know what to do - it only takes 10 seconds - and it saves a lot of wear and tear on the swivel locking mechanism.

Like · Comment · 94

Fridge cooling fans

Tech Tip number 3587 and a half - Fridge Cooling - Fan - Fridge not working in hot weather.
Well the hot weather is here and I guarantee that some owners of Classic Fridges will be cursing theirs at some point! They always seem to freeze the beer in winter yet it's lukewarm in summer.
The commonest reason for this is that the fridge simply gets too hot. Van fridges work by converting heat to cold, but if the ambient temperature gets too high then the efficiency suffers. Dometic know this, and many fridges have a cooling fan behind them - some owners don't even know it's there, and even if it is, it is usually one of the first things to break, as it is exposed to the elements.
So, to ensure the best chance of cool beer in summer, you need a cooling fan. And if you have one fitted, you need to make sure it is working - and to be honest, the fans fitted on Classic fridges - ie 20 yrs old, are pretty rubbish and should be replaced.
So here is the mod - first you need a fan, and the best types are those that you find inside computers to cool them. They are designed for non stop use, and they are quiet. Ebay is full of them for just a few quid - my advice is buy 2 - one for a spare. All you need extra is some wire, pliers or cutters, and some way of connecting and joining wires - crimp connectors, choc block connectors, or at a pinch - twist the wires together and tape them up (if you really must!)
Take the covers off your fridge out side. Look inside - do you see a fan? If you do, then you need to see if it is still working - some fridges have a manual fan switch, but others have an automatic thermostatically controlled circuit that is supposed to be fully automatic. The only way you can test this is to see if the fan is working in boiling hot weather - but even so while you are at it you might as well either replace it, or fit an additional one.
If an original fan is fitted - it might be noisy, so replace it, using the same wires, with a nice quiet powerful computer fan - but mount it on the inside of the top grille - blowing out - see photo.
Lets assume you have an old fridge with no fan. The easiest way to fit a new 12v computer fan is to simply use cable ties and attach it to the inside of the top grille - and do make sure it is blowing out - not in.
Next - the tricky job of connecting it. Here is where I am afraid I can't give specific instructions, because every van is different. But basically you need to find a wire that has 12v on it, and then tap into it for the fan supply, via a switch. A multimeter will help here - on most vans I have seen there are plenty of wires to choose from hanging around the cavity at the back of a fridge - the standard old Hymer scheme is a black cable, and inside a brown and a blue wire - blue is 12v, brown is ground.
You also need to find a switch, and somewhere to put it. Any switch will do - choose something that looks good and will fit in a convenient place. It is even acceptable to mount the switch externally even on the grille itself if you can't find a place in the van. Some fridges had a fan as standard with a switch mounted on the front panel, but the fan has maybe stopped working after many years. It is quite easy to use this switch and wiring to a new fan on the inside of the grille.
Now for those of you who turn green at the thought of anything electrical, don't give up! This is a very very easy job - so ask around your family and friends for someone to do it - even your local camper van place will struggle to charge you more than half an hour - especially if you supply the fan.
If you are going to DIY, then you will see the fan has a red and black wire. The black goes directly to the brown in the Hymer wire, and the red goes from the fan, to one terminal of the switch, and then from the other terminal of the switch to the blue Hymer wire - geddit? When switch is off - no 12v, when switch is on 12v goes to fan.
Sounds complicated, it isn't! And it is really worth doing if you are suffering from summer lukewarm fridge syndrome.
Next time you are parked up and the sun is beating down on the side of the van where the fridge vents are...just go out there and feel the heat where the grilles are - then you will understand just how hard the fridge has to work in these conditions. With a powerful, but quiet, computer fan installed on the top grille, it will pull cool air in through the bottom grille, over the fridge workings, and out through the top. It makes a big difference.
A computer fan takes very little current - you can leave it on all day - if you do get a flat battery, don't blame the fan - something else is wrong. You can switch off the fan at night if you wish, but as long as the low hum of fan noise doesn't disturb you, best to leave it on all the time if you are in a very hot climate.


EDIT - 2019

I have been running fridge cooling fans for many years now, so it's time for a bit of an update. Basically it works, but how well depends on the age of your fridge and where it is located - ie how much ventilation it gets from its standard installation at the factory. The worst offenders here are rear corner fridges like in the S555 and others. But for what it costs, if you DIY, there is no reason why every old fridge shouldn't have a fan. They usually let you down in a heatwave when you need it most, so best to be prepared.

However there are 2 aspects to fridge fans that you should think about, based on my experiences.

The first is quality of fan. You can pick up 12v computer fans for just a few quid, but I have yet to see one that has lasted more than 2 years. The reason for this is that road dust gets into the bearings and the fan basically dies of old age prematurely. First they go noisy and then they stop.

The second is noise. I like a silent van, and I used to find it very irritating to have the low hum a fan on constantly. You can switch it off at night of course, but you might forget - I always do. Or if the fridge is at the back of the bed and you are sleeping in the front, then you may not hear it at all - every van is different.

There are high tech solutions if you are up for it - you can buy temperature controlled switches that should do it automatically, but it's a DIY enthusiasts job.

Here is the solution that has worked for me. I did some research and found a computer fan online called "Acoustifan" (easy search on Ebay and Amazon). Not only is it quiet, but it also has sealed bearings and is dustproof. I bought one of these 2 years ago for about £17 and fitted it myself, as above, simply cable tied to the inside of the top grille, blowing out. It proved to be much quieter, and sounds today as good as it did 2 years ago, and that's after 2 long winter trips abroad.

However what I noticed over time, was that it could even be quieter - the reason being that because it was directly mounted on the grille, the grille was acting like a sort of resonator - a bit like the surface of a drum. After experimenting I found this to be true, and my solution was to put small bits of foam rubber between the fan and the grille. Now it is almost inaudible and I leave it on all the time.

Finally - don't go OTT! I have seen articles where folk have mounted twin fans blasting out noisily. This is overkill. All you need is gentle movement of air to help the hot air out of the top grille.




Saturday, 27 June 2015

finding spares

Search words - hymer spares mercedes spares spare parts

I just wrote this in reply to someone asking where to get spare parts - and I thought it would be good for reference so I am repeating it on the main feed so it can be searched for in future.

Perhaps somebody could do the same with reference to Fiats - about which I am afraid I know very little!

----------

For Hymer spares your first port of call is Brownhills, who are the main Hymer dealers in the UK - ask for Darren Leadbetter who is the old Hymer spares expert. d.leadbetter@brownhills.co.uk. But be aware that although they are pretty good, some parts can be expensive - even though if you mention Classic Hymers, you will get a 10% discount. Many habitation parts are "generic" - ie not Hymer specific - examples are the blinds - made by Seitz, all the gas stuff - Truma - fridges - Dometic and many other bits - like taps and light fittings and bulbs and bit n bobs - all this stuff can be sourced from caravan breakers, although it can be quite a task to identify what fits where. 

Google for "caravan breakers" there are loads....

I have also had Hymer spares from O'Leary Motorhomes

Premier Motorhomes Chichester 01243 511189 Chris - recommended by Justin

Please add you own good suppliers for Hymer habitation parts here ....

There are now getting some parts that are almost impossible to get - habitation door hinges are an example.

The wing mirrors are a standard truck part, and quite hard to find. 

As for the Mercedes - it's a mixed bag. Wander in to a Merc main dealer with your vin number, and watch them shake their heads and give you the "don't see many of these nowadays" routine, and arrange an overdraft before you go. The truth is that the Merc parts computer does still list the parts, but they are spread all over the country, and sometimes they just can't be bothered to do the work locating them. These are guys who work on £80k SLK's at £120 an hour....so forgive them for not giving a damn about your 20 year old pre Sprinter chassis. So avoid main dealers if you can (except in poorer EU countries like Portugal, where I have found them to be much much better)

What you need, and I have said this many times on here, is to forge a friendly relationship with a local light commercial garage, and preferably one with an owner who is in his 50's as he will have done his apprenticeship on these old chassis back in the 80's and 90's. He will have his own set of contacts for spares. Many parts are "pattern" parts and readily available - eg only a fool buys an oil filter from a Merc dealer!

And then there are the breakers. If you look around our roads you wonder that given the fact that these 80's and 90's pre Sprinter Merc vans and chassis - 410D (yours) 310D (5 series), and all the others - 208, 209, 409, 508 .....etc etc ...... are so incredible durable and long living.....where the hell are they? The only ones you see still plying their trade are either specialist vehicles, or minibuses, plus the odd hippy van conversion - they are THE van for hippy vans - just take a walk around any festival camp site. It took me a while to find the answer - they are all in Africa! Once their resale value in Europe dropped to a certain level, instead of scrappage, they were loaded wholesale into containers and shipped to Africa, where they are still running to this day, loaded to the gills with livestock and people. I found this out when I spent 2 winters in Morocco. 90% of all light commercials there are Mercedes T1 and T2, they just run and run and run, and they keep them on the road with ingenuity and hammers! There are breakers yards all over europe - including a couple in the UK, who hoover up all of what's left of these vehicles, and send containers of spares over to Africa. So now you know!

Luckily these guys have yards and stock, and the process is never ending, so it is possible to get spares from them before they ship out. There is a place in Cornwall I have used - a very nice guy, who found me a very rare high ratio gearbox for my S700.

And of course there are still plenty of traditional breakers around who get the occasional scrapper in.

So all in all - spares are available for these Merc chassis - you just have to be willing to do the work, and if all else fails, there are our German friends - they have no problem with spares, for the obvious reason that for every old Merc over here, there are still 10 over there. They can get pretty much anything you want.

Old English cars and commercials, Saltash, Cornwall 01752 851158 ask for Roy. 

Dronsfields Oldham 01706 883910 (can be a bit dear but very knowledgable)

erithcommercials.co.uk - never used them.....

http://www.mercman.co.uk/

More contacts here please!


Thursday, 25 June 2015

Spare parts for old Merc Hymers

Ron Bentham For Hymer spares your first port of call is Brownhills, who are the main Hymer dealers in the UK - ask for Darren Leadbetter who is the old Hymer spares expert. d.leadbetter@brownhills.co.uk. But be aware that although they are pretty good, some parts can be expensive - even though if you mention Classic Hymers, you will get a 10% discount. Many habitation parts are "generic" - ie not Hymer specific - examples are the blinds - made by Seitz, all the gas stuff - Truma - fridges - Dometic and many other bits - like taps and light fittings and bulbs and bit n bobs - all this stuff can be sourced from caravan breakers, although it can be quite a task to identify what fits where. 

There are now getting some parts that are almost impossible to get - habitation door hinges are an example.

The wing mirrors are a standard truck part, and quite hard to find. 

As for the Mercedes - it's a mixed bag. Wander in to a Merc main dealer with your vin number, and watch them shake their heads and give you the "don't see many of these nowadays" routine, and arrange an overdraft before you go. The truth is that the Merc parts computer does still list the parts, but they are spread all over the country, and sometimes they just can't be bothered to do the work locating them. These are guys who work on £80k SLK's at £120 an hour....so forgive them for not giving a damn about your 20 year old pre Sprinter chassis. So avoid main dealers if you can (except in poorer EU countries like Portugal, where I have found them to be much much better)

What you need, and I have said this many times on here, is to forge a friendly relationship with a local light commercial garage, and preferably one with an owner who is in his 50's as he will have done his apprenticeship on these old chassis back in the 80's and 90's. He will have his own set of contacts for spares. Many parts are "pattern" parts and readily available - eg only a fool buys an oil filter from a Merc dealer!

And then there are the breakers. If you look around our roads you wonder that given the fact that these 80's and 90's pre Sprinter Merc vans and chassis - 410D (yours) 310D (5 series), and all the others - 208, 209, 409, 508 .....etc etc ...... are so incredible durable and long living.....where the hell are they? The only ones you see still plying their trade are either specialist vehicles, or minibuses, plus the odd hippy van conversion - they are THE van for hippy vans - just take a walk around any festival camp site. It took me a while to find the answer - they are all in Africa! Once their resale value in Europe dropped to a certain level, instead of scrappage, they were loaded wholesale into containers and shipped to Africa, where they are still running to this day, loaded to the gills with livestock and people. I found this out when I spent 2 winters in Morocco. 90% of all light commercials there are Mercedes T1 and T2, they just run and run and run, and they keep them on the road with ingenuity and hammers! There are breakers yards all over europe - including a couple in the UK, who hoover up all of what's left of these vehicles, and send containers of spares over to Africa. So now you know!

Luckily these guys have yards and stock, and the process is never ending, so it is possible to get spares from them before they ship out. There is a place in Cornwall I have used - a very nice guy, who found me a very rare high ratio gearbox for my S700.

And of course there are still plenty of traditional breakers around who get the occasional scrapper in.

So all in all - spares are available for these Merc chassis - you just have to be willing to do the work, and if all else fails, there are our German friends - they have no problem with spares, for the obvious reason that for every old Merc over here, there are still 10 over there. They can get pretty much anything you want.

Monday, 22 June 2015

Mercedes Engine Cooling Fan issues ......

This is a query about cooling on the D310 Merc engine. The electric fan on our 1994 S555 cuts in regularly on motorway journeys at 50-55 mph even though the external temperature is well under 20C and the engine temp gauge is only around or maybe just above the halfway mark. Is this normal or is there some way I can adjust the thermostat on the fan? I wouldn't mind except that it's really noisy. Thanks for any advice.
Like · Comment · 313
  • 3 people like this.
  • Christian Skeels Is it an OM602 engine? As far as I am aware, the original fan was some sort of viscous coupling that engaged when a set temperature was exceeded. That's certainly what I have on my S550. These were problematic though and it's quite possible it has been replaced with an electric fan during the van's life. I am not aware of any electric fans being fitted as standard pre-1995. Happy to be corrected though!
  • Richard Benson Should be a 602 engine Christian, and unless modded it would have a viscous coupling. Mine only comes on on long climbs in the mountains when it's rate ot
  • Ron Bentham Unless you can see what is obviously an extra electric fan bolted on the front of your radiator - then you don't have one! What you do have as CS says, is the original Merc viscous coupled fan - it just sounds like an electric fan! I am very familiar with this problem - it drove me nuts for years on my old S700, which is basically the same engine. The fan looks like it is driven by the fan belt, and it is, but if you look closely you will see that the aluminium centre of the fan has what looks like cooling vanes. Inside there is a clutch which is operated by a fluid. When the fluid gets hot, it expands, engages the clutch, and power from the belt is transmitted to the fan blades, which speeds sucks more air through the rad, and cools the water, which cools the engine, which then runs cooler, so the air flowing through the rad gets cooler, which disengages the clutch in the fan..... And the noise you hear like an aircraft engine is the noise the fan makes when it is under full load. And unfortunately the VCF is a bit of a blunt instrument, and with no way to adjust it - so over it's life the point at which it cuts in and out changes slightly, and if you are unlucky, as you are and I was - it can cut in and out at cruising speed.

    You will notice the temp gauge needle rising and falling slightly as the cycle happens.
    16 June at 19:50 · Edited · Like · 3
  • Yes, same on my 1985 OM617. In it comes, with a big whine. Mine seems to run a bit hot, so it kicks in fairly frequently. Anyone here done a flush of their water system, to save me hunting down the best method?
  • Ron Bentham So what you end up with is a positive feedback loop - the fan cuts in, the temp drops, the fan cuts out, rinse and repeat.

    The bad news is you can do nothing about it. There is nothing to adjust. The options are either to completely replace the fan assembly, which is what I did, at a cost of around £400, or the other option is to add an electric fan on the front of the radiator, with an adjustable thermocouple which senses the engine coolant temperature, and powers the fan accordingly. This should have the effect off keeping the engine temp down below the threshold at which the original fan does it's annoying in and out shake it all about routine. It would be even better to have the thermocouple control in the cab, so you can adjust it as you go. This is a reasonable DIY project if you fancy it - the fans are on Ebay for less than £50.....and the other bits are cheap - you could do it in a day if you know what you are doing.

    You may ask why did the otherwise infallible Mercedes design team do it this way in the first place - the answer is that when the fan is operating, not only is it noisy, but it takes quite a lot engine horsepower - which you may have noticed as a drop off in speed when the fan cuts in, especially on those long motorway hills - often necessitating a change down in gear. So they tried to design a system that keeps maximum horsepower to the wheels, and only to the fan when necessary. And it does work, usually you don't even notice. But unfortunately in this case the fan system hasn't aged as gracefully as the rest of the engine. The problem is even more pronounced sometimes with those vans that have been turbo'd and intercooled, as the intercooler sits in front of the main radiator and upsets the airflow even more. Basically it would have been better if merc had fitted an electric fan as standard.

    Hope this helps.
    16 June at 19:51 · Edited · Like · 2
  • Nigel Pigott Fantastically helpful response, as ever – many thanks Ron and others. The electric fan solution seems very attractive. I'm guessing something like this: http://ebay.eu/1JTfLBH. There seems to be a mounting kit with it so I just need to find a suitable vacant slot on the fuseboard to wire it in (there seem to be lots) and then I might be able to listen to Radio 4 without turning the volume up to 11.



    14" AeroLine Universal Electric Radiator 12v Cooling...
  • Ron Bentham Yes thats similar to what I saw - just do a bit more research as to how the fan cut-in is actually controlled.

  • Ron Bentham That is exacly what you want - cheers xxx - those instructions are clear and concise. In my case it will be more complicated because when the intercooler is fitted, space is tight. I am hoping I can squeeze an electric fan in between the two. But first I will see how the newVCF I am having in the new S700 fares next week.
  • Nigel Pigott Thanks xxx and Ron. Almost ready to put in my order but having measured up I think I will need to go for a 12" fan as there is a fixing bar across the front of the radiator that would prevent a larger one being mounted flush. EBay has separate thermostat kits with relay and controller for under £10.
  • Ron Bentham Please post back when you have a result!
  • Gary Garage Johnstone Can I chip in on this thread.... I used to fit these type fans to TVR's and the way to control these units was to use a thermo sensor that was slotted into the top radiator hose (being the hottest point) the sensor was connected to a long fat flexi tube which then was attached to an adjustable temperature control that needed no physical wiring apart the fan as it activated the fan when it felt the need at the temperature set..http://www.ebay.com/.../Universal-12V-0-120.../171787644274



    Speedmaster adjustable fan wiring kits are designed to...
  • Nigel Pigott Thanks Gary. I was looking at this one as I don't really want to pay $23 postage: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web... . Looks similar? Off to Pembrokeshire for a week or so next week so probably won't be able to do anything until we get back.

Tuesday, 16 June 2015

vicious viscous fans

This is a query about cooling on the D310 Merc engine. The electric fan on our 1994 S555 cuts in regularly on motorway journeys at 50-55 mph even though the external temperature is well under 20C and the engine temp gauge is only around or maybe just above the halfway mark. Is this normal or is there some way I can adjust the thermostat on the fan? I wouldn't mind except that it's really noisy. Thanks for any advice.
  • 2 people like this.
  • Christian Skeels Is it an OM602 engine? As far as I am aware, the original fan was some sort of viscous coupling that engaged when a set temperature was exceeded. That's certainly what I have on my S550. These were problematic though and it's quite possible it has been replaced with an electric fan during the van's life. I am not aware of any electric fans being fitted as standard pre-1995. Happy to be corrected though!
    5 hrs · Like
  • Richard Benson Should be a 602 engine Christian, and unless modded it would have a viscous coupling. Mine only comes on on long climbs in the mountains when it's rate ot
    5 hrs · Like
  • Ron Bentham Unless you can see what is obviously an extra electric fan bolted on the front of your radiator - then you don't have one! What you do have as CS says, is the original Merc viscous coupled fan - it just sounds like an electric fan! I am very familiar with this problem - it drove me nuts for years on my old S700, which is basically the same engine. The fan looks like it is driven by the fan belt, and it is, but if you look closely you will see that the aluminium centre of the fan has what looks like cooling vanes. Inside there is a clutch which is operated by a fluid. When the fluid gets hot, it expands, engages the clutch, and power from the belt is transmitted to the fan blades, which speeds sucks more air through the rad, and cools the water, which cools the engine, which then runs cooler, so the air flowing through the rad gets cooler, which disengages the clutch in the fan..... And the noise you hear like an aircraft engine is the noise the fan makes when it is under full load. And unfortunately the VCF is a bit of a blunt instrument, and with no way to adjust it - so over it's life the point at which it cuts in and out changes slightly, and if you are unlucky, as you are and I was - it can cut in and out at cruising speed.

    You will notice the temp gauge needle rising and falling slightly as the cycle happens.
    3 hrs · Edited · Like · 3
  • Ron Bentham So what you end up with is a positive feedback loop - the fan cuts in, the temp drops, the fan cuts out, rinse and repeat.

    The bad news is you can do nothing about it. There is nothing to adjust. The options are either to completely replace the fan assembly, which is what I did, at a cost of around £400, or the other option is to add an electric fan on the front of the radiator, with an adjustable thermocouple which senses the engine coolant temperature, and powers the fan accordingly. This should have the effect off keeping the engine temp down below the threshold at which the original fan does it's annoying in and out shake it all about routine. It would be even better to have the thermocouple control in the cab, so you can adjust it as you go. This is a reasonable DIY project if you fancy it - the fans are on Ebay for less than £50.....and the other bits are cheap - you could do it in a day if you know what you are doing.

    You may ask why did the otherwise infallible Mercedes design team do it this way in the first place - the answer is that when the fan is operating, not only is it noisy, but it takes quite a lot engine horsepower - which you may have noticed as a drop off in speed when the fan cuts in, especially on those long motorway hills - often necessitating a change down in gear. So they tried to design a system that keeps maximum horsepower to the wheels, and only to the fan when necessary. And it does work, usually you don't even notice. But unfortunately in this case the fan system hasn't aged as gracefully as the rest of the engine. The problem is even more pronounced sometimes with those vans that have been turbo'd and intercooled, as the intercooler sits in front of the main radiator and upsets the airflow even more. Basically it would have been better if merc had fitted an electric fan as standard.