Boatyards make good pitstops

RONS TECHNICAL TIPS NO - "AHOY THERE!"

Caravan and Motorhome repair and accessory shops can be few and far between when you are in far away places (or Scotland!). 

But don't forget that boats use many of the components in our vans - or very similar. Boatyard people also will have the skills and understanding to try and help you out.

So if you are near the coast, or a big lake - a lake big enough to have plenty of boat activity - then head for the nearest town and search out the local boatyard. They always have bits and pieces - "chandlery" and fibreglass skills.

In the UK, and countries like Holland, Germany and France which have extensive canal networks, you will also find boatyards and repair places inland - so check your maps for canals.

In an emergency there is a good chance that a boatyard can sort you out or effect a running repair. They will also know the best local places for diesel work - most boats have diesel engines.

Just don't park on the slipway - especially if it's green!

Fixing a broken blind.

The plungers that you squeeze together with your fingers, to operate the blind, have a plastic pin which locates into a hole in the slider. The pin shears off the body of the plunger, so no longer moves the slide - technically it's a weak design, although not many actually break, we get a couple each year. The solution is to either buy a cheap blind from a breaker and cannibalise it for parts, or you can repair it. Basically it needs skills similar to model making. The usual approach is to take it apart and then locate where the pin used to be. Then drill a hole in the plastic and glue in another pin. You don't even need glue if the pin is a good fit. This could be a bit of broken drill, or a small "seloc pin" also called "roll pins" from a model engineering shop, or anything that your ingenuity can come up with. It's only the equivalent of a finger in a hole! The bad news is that you have to disassemble the whole blind just to get at it. I once spent hours of my life that I will never get back thinking that I could drill a hole from the front and then insert a screw so that the tip would locate in the hole. The trouble is that you don't actually know where the flipping hole is, so it's guesswork and easy to ruin the whole thing. So easier to just bite the bullet and disassemble. You then can see exactly where the hole needs to be drilled because there is a mark where it used to be. 

If you look for spares from a breaker, then you need to know that the blinds are made by a company called "Seitz" - "the ones from 20 years ago that you squeeze together to pull them up" - most breakers should know what you mean. It doesn't matter what size blind it comes from, as the part is the same on all blinds. It is unlikely that you will just be able to buy the part - most breakers will charge you for the whole blind. The going rate (2016) is around £30 a blind. If you have a choice, buy a blind bigger than yours, then you will have spares that can be cut down.

Have fun!

USING A TABLET INSTEAD OF A DEDICATED SATNAV

RONS TECHNICAL TIPS NO "WHERE AM I?"

USING A TABLET INSTEAD OF A DEDICATED SATNAV

People seem to like dedicated satnavs, but even the cheap ones are expensive. I use an android 7 inch tablet - you can get brand new ones for £69, and s/h ones for buttons, and I run TomTom for android which costs £15 a year. The latest version of TT is really very good - not perfect, but very good. You don't need a connection to the internet, but if you do, then the traffic information is really excellent, and because the screen of the tablet is so big, it's a really nice display.

The icing on the cake with this solution, is that you can use the tablet for other things. Mine is basically setup as the vans mission control. It is mounted on the dash and isn't used for anything else - it lives there just like a dedicated satnav. In addition to TomTom I have the Wildcamping app, Google maps, and I also have the entire UK set of OS maps, which isn't cheap, but worth it for me. Because mine is always connected to the internet I can do research, messaging, facebook - anything I want really, and all from the drivers seat, while doing 90mph in the outside lane operating the phone with one hand and a beer in the other while steering with my knee. Obviously.

The Wildcamping app is particularly cool if your tablet is internet connected, the map displays the nearest spots, and with a single press it fires up Google street view and displays a photo of the wild spot.

Having Google Street View at your fingertips while on the road is also incredibly useful - saves having to get the laptop out or squint at the phone. As an example, I use it to check if there are any height barriers at shopping centre car parks. The only problem with it is that you have to put the beer down in order to operate the tablet. 

If you buy the right tablet, and spend a bit more on one that has a sim socket, so it basically becomes a big mobile phone, and then shove in one of the cheap PAYG data sims from Three or EE, not only will you get real time traffic info from both TT and Google, you can use the personal hotspot feature of the tablet and provide wifi in the van for all your other devices. It is worth remembering that a tablet generally has a better antenna than a phone or a little mifi unit, and when mounted in the clear at the front of the van (see photo) will generally get a better signal in remote areas. Not as good as a dedicated external antenna, but better than a small phone.

So basically a dash mounted tablet/phablet is a very versatile jack of all trades and much cheaper than all but the cheapest Chinese sat navs.

I am very picky about satnav, and have tried them all except Garmin. I must say I am very quietly impressed with TomTom for android. It updates itself and is pretty much always up to date and maintenance free. I am more than happy to pay their reasonable annual fee.

Apple users can achieve all of the same buy buying an old Ipad mini, but unfortunately it has to be one with a sim card, because only the sim card Ipads have GPS. You don't need to have a sim in it for it to be a decent sat nav, but having a data sim in it, or tethering it to a phone will give you TomTom's traffic info - which is rather good. Most Android tabs have GPS - but do check.

Mine is mounted with Velcro, and fed power from a USB socket on the dash, and can be removed in seconds for security.

Finally - I was joking about the beer and operating while driving. They have now doubled the fine and points for operating a device while driving, so even I am now behaving myself, after years of knee steering I now have both hands on the wheel! It's weird! Mine is set up so that while driving it only needs a glance, and the voice instructions are really good. I even have it set up so that I can voice control it - I can say "Hey Google, navigate to the nearest Tesco", and it works. But usually it's just easier to do all the research and set up the journey before driving away. And of course your copilot can also do all the button pressing while you are driving.

I am not saying this is the best way to do things, but it is my favourite solution in my van. It isn't particularly technical, and quite easy to set up. Even if you only use a tablet for satnav - you still get a huge screen for very little money.

TomTom

OS Maps from Viewranger app

Wildcamping app

Photo view of wild camping spot

I have now also added a second tablet to cover the speedo. The app is called DigiHUD Pro, available from the Android app store.

INTERIOR CLASSIC LIGHTING 101

I have seen various posts and questions over the years about the various interior lights in classic Hymers. Changing to LEDs has been all the rage recently, but for many this is at odds with preserving the classic style, and for others they just don't like "colour" of the new LEDs. Add to that the fact that some fittings and bulbs are getting obsolete and hard to find so it's no wonder there is confusion. So let's clear it up.

In an "average" classic Hymer there are 3 types of light - tube, halogen and incandescent. There are photos below of the common types. 

Tubes. These are easy to identify - they are long and thin, and are mini versions of the fluorescent tubes us baby boomers all grew up with at home and work. They work on the principle of trapping a fluorescent gas inside a vacuum tube, and applying voltage at each end. This causes the gas to glow and give out light. They were "new technology" once upon a time. For many years the only type of domestic light was the good old fashioned lightbulb, but these were very inefficient, giving off only about 20% light and 80% heat, so when fluoros came along, giving off more light and less heat, they became instantly popular, especially in the workplace and in institutions - ie hospitals! They give off quite a harsh bright white, which is great for brain surgeons, but not so good for the bedroom. So fluros tended to be found in utility areas, kitchens, garages etc. However it was possible to get a softer light from tubes by using shades and covers made for glass or plastic, and this is what we find in our classic Hymers - a white tube covered by a smoked plastic cover, and the result is a reasonably pleasing light for the van interior.

Tip - when did you last clean your tube shades? Most classic tube lights in Hymers have 2 thumb screws that enable you to easily remove the shade. A good wash can make a big difference if yours haven't been cleaned for many years.

The tubes themselves are still easily available. They last a very long time, so many of us still have the originals and are unfamiliar with changing them. They can blow suddenly, or gradually. The sign of a tube on the way out is they go black at the ends and occasionally they will flash, or take a while to light up. If this is happening you should replace the tube asap because a tired tube is placing extra stress on the transformer. Tube lights work at a much higher voltage than 12v, so each light has a transformer in it - usually a small box at the end of the light. It is the transformer circuit that is important, because if that goes faulty, then you have a problem, because they are not readily available. In extreme cases they can get hot and give off foul smelling acrid smoke - this is the smell of the chemicals used in the capacitors in the circuit. Once this happens, you need a whole new tube light.

As far as I am aware, the tube lights used in classics are no longer available. I am not sure who manufactured them, but it is not just a matter of phoning a dealer and ordering a new one. Your only options are to either replace the whole thing with a different, more modern one, or, if you fancy a bit of DIY, you can convert the old lamp to LED. LEDs work off 12v so don't need a transformer. There is usually a white or silver reflector running the whole length of the fitting, and this is ideal for sticking one or two strips of self adhesive LEDs. You then take the 12v wires that were originally going to the transformer, and connect that to the LEDs. Done properly, the whole fitting appears unchanged, and if you use "warm white" leds as opposed to "cool white", the final result will be satisfactory compared with the original. This is an easy job for kitchen lights that have an external switch, but less so for the lights that have the switch built into the unit, as this is usually part of the transformer unit. However it can be done if you are happy to use a soldering iron.

Another option is to embark on a quest to find an original second hand - they were used on many vans and caravans, not just Hymers, so there will be one sitting on the shelf of a breaker somewhere. You don't even need the correct size, as the transformer units are pretty standard, and if you are even slightly handy at DIY you can cannibalise a transformer and transplant it into yours.

So with all that kerfuffle, it is easy to understand why people may chuck in the towel and install a new lamp - but the thing to remember is this - it can be done!

Halogens. These are the small round spot lights found above the bed and in some dining areas. A halogen light is just like a normal filament bulb, but with a bit of halogen gas inside the bulb. This makes the filament burn more brightly, and gives off a lot more light for the same power - but also a lot of heat. For this reason people think they are very inefficient. Well they are when compared to an LED, but the halogen spots in classics are quite small, and in reality they don't use a huge amount of power. They give off a warm light, and again, the colour of this light is in keeping with the classic feel. If you like them, you can keep them. If you don't like them you can change them. There are several LED equivalents. Because you are only changing the bulb there is no major surgery and you can revert back to halogens easily, or experiement with different types of LEDs.

Incandescents. These are the normal 12v bulbs and usually found up front around the drop down bed. Also in the cab lights. These are pretty utilitarian in nature, and don't need much discussion. They are not usually left on for long periods of time, so power consumption is less of an issue. There are LED equivalents of all these 12v bulbs, so you can experiement to your hearts content.

However the one exception is the bathroom light! Most CH bathrooms have the "classic" vertical lighting column, behind a vertical plastic shade (which benefits from a good wash occasionally!) adjacent to the mirror, and contains 4 x 23w classic 12v tail light bulbs. Total consumption almost 100watts! This is the light that causes the most consternation for owners because of all the lights in the van, this is the one that causes the "STROM" meter to deflect most noticeably into the red. It is the grandaddy, and the other lights dim in courtesy! But it is also sexy, and very fit for purpose, and typically Hymer. Men hardly notice it - as long as they can find the roll they are happy, but for the ladies and teenage girls it's the most important light in the van. It's the makeup light. So mess with it at your peril! The 4 bulbs and the colour of the shade give off just the right light for doing makeup and girly things. It is also very useful for a decent shower if your van has one. There is nothing worse than showering in the gloom.

Those 4 x 23w lights consume just under 8 amps. A fully charged normal leisure battery will keep the bathroom light shining brightly for about 6 hours. Non stop. The average bathroom visit is 2 minutes for a man and 15 minutes for a woman, unless it's Saturday night, in which case add another hour. But do the maths - even using the monster light in the bathroom for an hour, it will only use about 10% of the battery. And this only applies if you are wild camping - ie not hooked up. When you are hooked up, power consumption is insignificant. Even if you are wildcamping regularly, your battery should do you for 2 days, longer if you have solar, and every hour you drive will charge your battery up 30 to 40%. The worst thing that can happen is that you leave the bathroom light on all night - that will usually flatten your battery - but it's a rare occurrence and easily solved by starting the engine.

Hymer knew the bathroom light would use a lot of power, but they also had decades of experience and the sense to know that some things just can't be compromised, and that of all places, the bathroom needs good light, as with the kitchen to a lesser extent.

So think twice before just buying any old LED bulb for the bathroom, and don't just change it for the sake of it. If you put in bright "cool white" bulbs you will end up with a bathroom that looks like a scene from a horror film morgue. Cool White is a no no and Warm White is the way to go, and experiment - or just leave alone. You can also install LED strips - see photo below of my installation, which is the third version in as many years before I finally got it to our satisfaction. It also helps to fully involve the female members of the team when choosing bathroom lighting.

So that's the lowdown on lights. Other than the technical issues of maintaining the original lights, the main point I am trying to make is to think twice and plan carefully any LED upgrades, and get familiar with the concept of "colour temperature". The wrong colour light can be really annoying. The other point is that that the original lighting was good for 30 years before LEDs came along. Batteries are meant to be used and are more than capable of keeping the lights on for normal use. You only need to consider modification if you really intend to go off grid for long periods of time - ie more than 2 days at a time.

Standard Hymer tube light. The transformer circuits and switch are the white bit at the left hand end. Remove the shade with the thumbscrews.

Standard halogen spot. Easy to replace with an LED bulb. But do you really want to?!

Original kitchen strip light. This one had it's transformer and switch up in the panel. When it blew a year or so ago, I replaced the tubes with LED strips.

Illuminated!

LED strips with door switches are a cool modification. No more peering in the back looking for the Branston. Fiddly to wire, but well worth it.

Before

Same for the overhead cupboards. LED strips fit nicely under the front top lip, and take their power from the wires feeding the normal lights. The overheads are a lot easier to do than the vertical kitchen cupboard.

Before

I replaced the 4 bulbs in the central column with warm white LED strips, and extended the strips over the mirrors. I have a separate shower cubicle to the right, and the idea was to throw more light into the shower. This is a low exposure photo that doesn't show how bright it is, but shows where the LED strips are fitted.

Modern Insurance

25 years ago there was an insurance broker on every high street. You got to know him after a few years, and he usually handled everything. If you had a claim, and you had a good relationship, then no problem. If you had to cancel because you sold a car, then he'd refund you pro rata. Then the internet came along and a huge relaxation of what and what could not be advertised on TV. Direct Line started it all, even befoe the internet - cut out the middle man. What we see today is an orgy of direct selling in a highly competitive market. Baby Boomers remember the old times and shake their heads in dis-belief, yearning for the old days. Do you really want to buy a financial service from from a bald headed bloke in half a suit, hotpants and a wiggly fat arse? Or are you going to be impressed by some bloke with a big moustache? No, me neither, but what's the alternative? The trouble is, our sons and daughters, the millennials, have fallen for it hook line and sinker, because they grew up with it. We try and warn them, and get called fuddy duddy. Of a £300 premium, the underwriter probably gets just over half. The rest goes on a raft of middlemen - TV companies, creatives and web entrepreneurs to name but three. And it's ultra competitive. The only way the new style brokers can make any money is by squeezing margin out of every aspect the process. So you get recorded announcements about terms and conditions, and web pages that won't allow you to progress unless you click "accept". They have people who's job description is entirely predicated on creating loopholes that generate margin. The oldest trick in the book is the numbers they make you call from which they get a kickback per minute from the phone company. I used to work in that industry. Callshare paid for my first Hymer. Only in the last couple of years have the regulators finally started to do something about the scandal of premium numbers. For years they had a cosy cartel because 0845 numbers were charged at full whack from mobiles. It's not just insurance, it's almost every aspect of modern life. Mobile phone roaming abroad is another one. But the corporates are such a strong lobby and they fight every aspect of regulation - so government becomes bloated and corrupt trying to sort it all out. They are now legally obligated to provide 03 numbers - but you try and find them on their webpages. And Brexiters take note - you can thank the EU for a lot of effort in trying to get a better deal for us all in this and many other respects. It wasn't perfect, but they did some great work. And If you try and take them on, they tie you up in procedures designed to make you get bored and just give up. They threaten your credit rating, which can be a big thing for many of us. If you have the time, and treat it like a game, you can actually take them on and win. They actually cost in a percentage for complainers that go the whole distance. The trick is to get your case allocated to that percentage. If you turn up at County Court fully documented up, you will win 9 times out of 10, because they won't actually send a lawyer - it's too expensive. Same with the Ombudsman, as long as you have six months or more to spare.

So what to do? You vote with your feet. Three years ago I went back to a high street broker - they still exist. He - it's a she actually - gets all my business, and it's not actually that much more expensive. In fact we are lucky when it comes to insurance, because we actually still have a choice. Bank managers have all but disappeared unless you are a big account. And just look at the mess with energy prices. So you just don't use them. OK sometimes you don't have much choice, so you just do what you can with your eyes wide open, but with insurance you most certainly have a choice. You find a broker, make an appointment, sit in front of him and watch his eyes, ask all the right questions, and make a judgement call. If happy then you give him all your insurance. Don't begrudge him his cut, but make him work for it. If you cost your own time at £25 an hour, which is dirt cheap, then it's worth paying 10% extra, in fact it's a bargain.

Headlights

RONS TECHNICAL TIPS NO. 555 LUMENS. MERCEDES HEADLIGHTS.

EDIT 2023 - NON WORKING HEADLIGHT ADJUSTERS ARE NOT A UK MOT FAIL AS LONG AS THE HEADLIGHTS ARE A NORMAL HEIGHT. MOTORHOMES ARE EXEMPT FROM THE REQUIREMENT TO HAVE A WORKING ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM.

I've been meaning to get to grips with my headlights for a while. Not only are they pretty dim to begin with, after 20+ years they get even dimmer. I have seen several posts on here over the years about it. Bulb failures are quite rare, but if they happen, and you need to change a bulb, from the experiences of others it seems to be quite a job because you are working in a restricted space behind the front body work through the bonnet.

In principle, the job is easy - you twist off the cover, push and twist the holder, and it all pops out. The reality is quite different. The flipping things are stiff with age and because you are working blind you are scared of breaking them. What I discovered today should hopefully make the job a lot easier.

Basically, on a Merc Hymer, it's easier to tackle the job from the front! In the time it takes to mess about from the back, you can have the front grille off, 4 bolts, and another 2 screws to remove the indicator and surrounding trim, and then the whole headlight is exposed. On some vans I have been told that the surrounding trim has additional screws in teh aluminium side trim - look for these if your trim does not come away easily. Then 4 screws at each headlight corner and the whole light comes out. The glass lens comes off very easily with just one screw at each corner. There is a rubber seal between the glass and the body. You only need to take the glass front off if you intend to clean the silver reflector and the inside of the glass. If you only want to change the bulb, then leave the glass on.

Once you can get at the thing with both hands, the plastic dome cover comes off with a twist, and so does the bulb holder. Changing bulbs is then a doddle. I recently bought a set of higher power bulbs and a set of LED side light bulbs at the Hymerfest, and fitting them this way is easy.

I also had chance to examine and work out the headlight adjustment mechanisms. A lot of Merc vans have a headlamp height adjustment that is operated from a big knob on the dash, or a knob mounted under the drivers seat. The system is hydraulic - tubes full of water go from the knob to the back of the headlight. The system doesn't age well, and although I know a few owners who have a working system, the majority of us don't. Either pipes get damaged or they lose pressure, but basically they don't work anymore. Headlight height adjustment is less of an issue for motorhomes, as we generally have a constant ride height, so we just put up with it at a fixed height.

The hydraulic system is just about impossible to repair. If you are dead keen on height adjustable headlights then there is a firm in Germany who make a conversion kit to electrical adjustment. I have the link if anybody wants it.

So you have the wires going to the headlight for the 12v power, and a small plastic tube going to one corner of the back of the light. I just snipped it off. I then unplugged the wires to the bulb, and then had the whole unit in my hand.

The mechanism is quite simple once you get a good look at it. In one corner is a ball joint, in another corner is the adjustment arm from the hydrraulic tube, and in the other corner is the manual screw adjuster that you can see at the back of the headlight. The good news is that there is a manual adjuster screw collar on the hydraulic side, so having snipped off the tube, you can actually adjust the headlight to your desired setting. It's hard to put into words, but once you have it front of you it is easy to work out. 

However if you are happy with your general headlight adjustment and only want to change a bulb, or clean a lens, then doing it from the front is the way to go. 

The new 100w bulbs are really bright, but not ridiculously so compared with all these new technology bulbs on modern cars that are constantly blinding you, and the little blue LED sidelights are funky.

The whole headlight assembly is really easy to get at from the front. I cleaned and serviced and lubricated and polished the whole lot in about 90 minutes start to finish. Now better than new.

Hymerfest 2016 Technical Roundup

Hymerfest Technical Round-up
=======================

Well what an amazing sight! Over a hundred Classics Hymers all lined up in a field. I spent several hours just walking among the rows and rows of vans like a trainspotter at Clapham Junction!

Here is a round-up of what happened on the technical side.

The main event for us techies was the Saturday tech workshop. Once again Peter Curry enthralled all present with the intricacies and foibles of our gas appliances. In particular he stressed the historical differences between the gas system of Classics and the gas systems of modern vans which I want to repeat here for the benefit of all owners.

Most pre 95 Hymers operate at a different gas pressure to modern vans. The German standard back in the 80's and 90's was 50mbar, modern vans operate at 37 or 30mbar, and critically, many (but by no means all) UK caravan engineers don't know this. Peter comes across many Classics that have been serviced and repaired in the last 20 years in the UK and have had the wrong components inadvertently fitted. The commonest instances of this are the fitting of replacement regulators of the wrong pressure, and the replacement of appliances, also of the wrong pressure.

The critical point for all classic owners is to know and understand that their vans are different, and that whenever you have gas work done you must ensure that whoever is working on your van is aware of this. New owners should have their vans checked carefully to make sure that previous owners have not had work done using the wrong gear. Mistakes are easily rectified by a qualified gas engineer, and you will then know that everything in your van is as it should be. It's a safety item, and it is pretty much the most important technical message that we have to get through to all Classic Owners.

I then gave a talk on 12v systems in general, and answered questions. We discussed new battery technology, and a few owners reported that they had fitted the new Odyssey PC1800 battery, and were very happy with it. It is a class piece of kit, and in my estimation, a single PC1800 is the equivalent of 3 or even 4 normal leisure batteries.

There was also some discussion on solar panels. I put forward the idea that solar is less effective up here in northern Europe than it is down in Spain and Portugal, where the sun is much higher. I have been taking measurements all of this year, and have found that my panels give two thirds less power in September than they do in June. To put some figures on that, in June at midday I was getting 19 amps, in September, just 6. The conclusion I draw from this is that it is very difficult to rely on solar all year round in the UK, and perhaps a better approach is to spend the money on storage - i.e. batteries. An hour of driving or a few hours on hookup or a small generator can generate more power than a large solar array does all day - as long as you have somewhere to store it. That is not to say that solar doesn't have its place - it does, especially for normal holiday use in the summer months, where it will keep a normal leisure battery nicely topped up, but for heavy users or full timers, care needs to be taken in overall system design.

Several people asked me to take a look at their battery installations and I was happy to see that pretty much everything I saw was up to scratch and well installed.

I was also asked whether it was possible to power aircon units, which normally should only work on hookup, while on the move. The answer to this is technically yes, but it's not just a matter of fitting a large inverter - so care has to be taken and the technicalities have to be well understood.

Inverters in general seem to be a favourite upgrade mainly due to the huge popularity of hand held devices with plug in chargers. Devices that recharge through a USB port can easily be accommodated in a van, and can be powered either from a small inverter, or directly from 12v - there isn't a big difference in efficiency - it's more about convenience. Laptops need quite a bit more power, but are also easily handled if installed properly. If in doubt just ask away on the main feed and we will help.

Geoff Valenti, our Fiat guru, also had a busy weekend, blowing his own trumpet .... groan! Common questions were - does my Fiat have a turbo or not? It's not a daft question because there were many derivatives, turbos are usually hidden deep in the van, and original documentation can be missing.

How do I check the level of the gearbox oil, and which oil? Very important on Fiats.

Cam belt issues are also very important on the Fiats and their derivatives. Geoff always stresses how important it is to know when your cam belt was last changed, and when it is due again. One van, who shall remain nameless, hadn't had a cam belt change for eleven years. Lucky guy!

Other highlights for me were looking at an S660 which had had a turbocharged engine fitted from the Ssangyong Musso, which was a 4x4 from the 1990's that had a near identical Mercedes engine. 

And I saw an S700 with 16 inch alloy wheels and fat tyres, and I have to say it looked the absolute DB's! People often comment about the small wheels in big arches of some Hymers, and this van proved that it was possible to do something about it, it's just a matter of cash!

Repainted front grilles were examined and compared, brighter headlight bulbs were offered and sold at very reasonable money, and revamped interiors were shown off with pride.

It was a pleasure to be there - I have no hesitation in adding my thanks to the Admin team for all the heavy lifting, and thanks to all for the odd mention I have had too. 

Keep on Hymering!

Finding fresh water in the UK

It can be hard to find fresh water for a motorhome in the UK if you don't use sites on a regular basis.

However with a bit of imagination and the confidence to be cheeky, you can usually get water when you need it. There are quite a few taps around, you just need to find them.

The wildcamping app has a limited database of taps, but there is never one close when you want one! Cemerteries usually have a tap, especially the rural ones, also churches. I carry a 20 litre plastic drum for those times when running a hose pipe over grandma's headstone would be inappropriate. Other options are petrol stations and garages, the more rural the better. Farmers will usually also help out - and never be put off by a refusal or a funny look because these are in the minority in my experience. You just have to have the confidence to ask. I have only ever been refused once or twice in many years.

Metered water in the UK is approx £2 per cubic meter, which is 2p for 10 litres, 20p for 100 litres, so mentioning this to people and offering a donation of £1 is also a good move. Most people don't actually know the true cost of metered water.

It also pays to have all the gear. I have a long hose extension in my top box, plus all the adaptors, about 40 metres in total, which is ideal when you can't get the van close to a tap.

Classic Hymers for Total Newbies

Classic Hymers for Newbies! (Updated for 2020)

A lot of owners are old hands and take the basics for granted. But we all have to start somewhere, and if you have just bought your first Classic and have no idea how it works, then this extremely basic guide will get you on your way.

This guide should be useful to most pre 95 Hymer owners. But bear in mind that there may be differences, especially with fridges. 

Electrics

Before we discuss electrics - memorise this ....

THE BROWN WIRE IS NOT POSITIVE!!

Hymer 12v electrics Blue = positive. Brown = negative

The first thing to remember is that a motorhome is a caravan body on a commercial van chassis, even the ones that look as though they don't have a recognisable cab. Think of the van as a "load" on an empty van chassis. Merc or Fiat made the engine, controls and chassis, and Hymer then built the van onto it. This means that all the electrics and systems on the base chassis are different and separate from the van electrics and systems. So you have Hymer electrics, and you have Fiat or Merc electrics, and the two systems are completely separate. This is why the van has 2 fuse boxes - one for the Hymer side and one for the Fiat or Merc side.

You have two batteries. One for the Merc or Fiat chassis, and one for the Hymer and they are completely separate. The chassis battery does not power the living part of the van (also known as "habitation") and the habitation battery does not power the chassis - i.e. it won't start it.

These two batteries are fundamental to your understanding, and from now on will be referred to as LB for leisure/van battery, and VB for vehicle/chassis battery.

Both batteries are charged from the engine when you are driving. So when you arrive on site you should have 2 fully charged batteries. The LB will then power your living area, and the VB will do absolutely nothing. This means that you can run out of power from the LB, but the van will always start, and as soon as you do, the LB will start to be charged up again from the engine. VB power is never used for living - it's only for starting the van.

A common mistake is to leave the headlights or sidelights on all night, and flatten the VB. Nothing can prevent this except getting into the habit! At least you can make a cup of tea while you wait for breakdown to come and start you up. We've all done it!

On Mercedes there is usually a battery box that contains both batteries - LB and VB, and the habitation fuse panel is adjacent to the drivers left knee (LHD vans). 

On Fiats and derivatives the VB is usually under the bonnet, and the LB is under one of the front seats. The habitation fuse panel is usually by the drivers left knee (LHD vans) or the passengers right knee (RHD vans).

The fuse box in classics uses the old style Bosch barrel fuses. These are still available online and from Halfords. They are also called "euro" fuses. Behind the fuse panel is a box, which pulls out if you remove 4 screws. In this box are the relays and the shunt - these are covered in other blog posts.

The vehicle fuses are usually in the passenger footwell somewhere.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO UNDERSTAND THAT 12V HYMER WIRING IS NOT THE SAME AT YOUR HOUSE WIRING. IN A CLASSIC HYMER BROWN IS EARTH/NEGATIVE/GROUND. BLUE AND OCCASIONALLY BLACK ARE POSITIVE. IF YOU INTEND TO REWIRE ANYTHING OR CHANGE A BATTERY MAKE SURE YOU UNDERSTAND THIS BEFORE STARTING.

There is a big red switch handle close by the habitation fuse box. You can't miss it. This is the 12v emergency cut off switch. Normal "on" position is down. To isolate, turn it either way so it pops out. This is only for emergency, normally it should be left on. You can switch off for winter storage if you like. If you smell burning, like plastic burning, then you operate the big red switch, and then outside unplug the van if on hookup. Fires are rare, but they do happen. Make sure you have a big, up to date, fire extinguisher, a proper smoke alarm, and for good measure, a carbon monoxide alarm. Especially if you have children.

Control Panel

Most classics have a panel with 2 meters. One marked "Spannung" and the other "Strom". This is German for Voltage and Power. Next to the left meter, voltage, is a switch marked Battery 1 and Battery 2. It's a rocker switch. When you press either way, then the meter should light up, and the needle will indicate the voltage of the battery. Battery 1 is the VB, and should never change when you are parked up, and battery 2 is the LB, and this will very gradually reduce from over 12v to below 11v as you use the power from your LB. You will see that the dial is calibrated not only in volts, but in green and red zones! You should avois running the battery into the red zone. In fact, by modern standards, the red zone starts a bit too low, you shouldn't really run a battery below 11.5 or 12v. But the old Hymer meters are not as accurate as modern digital ones, so there is a bit of leeway.

You can get some indication as to the health of your battery by looking at the voltage meter, but only when the battery is "resting" ie not being charged or discharged. So if you have solar, wait until night, and not on EHU. A fully charged battery will "rest" at 12.8v, around 13v, and will fall to around just under 12v as it discharges. So in the evening, when you are on battery power only, you can get an indication of how well your battery supplies your needs. If it regularly is at under 12v by bed time, perhaps after you have been using a TV or something else, then maybe it's time to look at your system - regularly discharging a 12v battery to 11v or 10v and below will shorten its life.

The right hand meter - Strom - has the needle always in the middle - known as "centre zero". Green zone to the right of the needle, and Red zone to the left. If the needle is in the red, then you are using power. If the needle is in the green, then the LB is receiving power by being charged. With the engine running, or on hookup (more on hookup later) then you should see the needle in the green. There is no control of this meter - it is for info only. But by looking at it when you switch things on and off, and comparing it with the voltage of Batt 2 (LB) you should over time get familiar with the power system in your van, and it is good for troubleshooting. It is calibrated in amps, but again, it is not very accurate by modern standards. The main thing is that it should deflect either way to indicate charge or discharge, but bear in mind that this will change according to the state of charge of the battery - if the battery is fully charged then don't expect to see the needle deflect much into the green, It will only do so if the battery needs and is receiving a big charge.

Also note that if you have solar panels fitted, the charge from these may not be indicated by the Strom meter. Solar panels were not a factory option and were often fitted direct to the battery, and not via the meter. 

While you are hooked up to EHU, the voltage meter will be up above 13v all the time and the Strom meter will generally stay in the green all the time.

On the very left is a switch marked Frischwasser/Abwasser - this means Freshwater/Greywater and when pressed will indicate the level of either the fresh water tank, or the grey water tank. The lower part of the meter is calibrated "leer" 25% 50% and 75% and "voll". leer = empty, voll = full. It is not a continuous display. The level is not driven by a float as in a petrol tank on a car. There are 4 sensors in the tank, so the needle will jump between the 5 positions. It is only a rough guide. In old vans this system often gets clogged with dirt and stops working after many years.

In the middle of the panel is the dreaded "switch with no name". This is an extra switch for options and/or owner fitted modifications. Yours may or may not do something. On many vans it has no function. Next to this is often a switch named "Lufter". That means fan, and operates the fan in the space above the cooker, to extract cooking smoke. There should be a lever under the panel which opens and shuts an external vent. All vans are different, so just check yours out and work it out.

On the right there is a light switch called "Licht" which operates the kitchen light. On many vans there is also a switch by the entrance door for this light - similar to the two way switches that operate the landing light in a house.

On most classics, the whole control panel is secured by just 3 screws along the front lip and if you undo these the panel will drop down on hinges, exposing the gubbins inside. many panels have a clock and/or a radio fitted - this is how you get at it. It also gets a bit dirty in there because of cooking, so you should have a gentle clean around every few years.

All the other lights in the van are usually operated by switches built into or adjacent to the lights themselves. Most Hymer original lighting consisted of 12v halogen spots and 12v strip fluorescent tubes. In the bathroom many vans have a column light with 4 bulbs in it.

Ever since the introduction of LED lighting most owners have converted all their lights to LED thinking they will save power. While this is true in theory, in practice it isn't as much as you might think. If you still have original lighting, think twice before ripping out the original lighting, especially if you like the "retro" look and feel. Some LED lighting can be harsh and not comfortable and should be planned and designed carefully. I have blogged about this elsewhere on this blog. If you do convert to LED, the golden rule is always make sure you buy "warm white" LEDs, not "cool white".

The 12v strip lights are now obsolete - you can still get the tubes, but not the shades and transformers. These can be nicely converted using 12v warm white led strips inside and look good while preserving the original design.

Electrical Hookup - also known as EHU.

There is a socket on the side of your van and you should have a cable that you can hookup to the mains on a campsite or at home (with a suitable adaptor).

On most vans there is an electric socket somewhere in the kitchen area, and also in the TV cabinet if fitted. All vans are different so look for your sockets. These will be euro style, so buy some adaptors. You can usually plug anything into these that you would at home, but not always. Many campsites limit the amount of power available through the hookup, so anything powerful that generates heat - kettles, toasters etc, may either not work, or trip out the supply. All camp sites are different, especially on the continent, but generally you should be able to run a kettle or a toaster in the UK. Most people use a gas kettle. TV's and laptops and most other stuff can be powered from these sockets, and the sockets are only live when hooked up. For the technically minded most UK campsites use 10amp trips, which is equivalent to about 2200w or 2.2kw. This is more than enough for hairdryers, microwaves, kettles, oil radiators, small fan heaters and coffee machines. European sites often (but not always) have lower trips - 6amp or even less.

While you are hooked up, your LB will be charged up by a battery charger. Usually this is a small blue box hidden away somewhere. Sometimes it emits a gentle hum. It should just work, and you should see the needle go into the green when hooked up. You should remember that when hooked up, all your lights and fans, in fact everything that works on 12v when you are not hooked up, are still powered from the LB. But the LB receives enough charge from the battery charger to compensate for this use, and stay charged. The only things on the van that actually use 240v are the fridge, and the charger, plus whatever you plug into the sockets. Everything else still works on 12v, even though you are hooked up.

By modern standards the blue box charger is old technology. Modern chargers are digital and make a better job of charging and maintaining your battery when on EHU. While there is no pressing reason to change - if it works don't fix it - if the situation does arise that your battery charger gives up the ghost and needs replacing, then replace it with a modern digital charger of 10 to 15 amps. Ask on the groups and forums for recommendations, or consult your dealer if you have one. (Note - this applies to pre 95 vans that have a separate charger. 95 is about the time they started to fit "Elektroblock" chargers made by Schaudt. If your van (most pre 95 classics don't) has an Elektroblock, then this doesn't apply to you. If in doubt, ask)

Mains 220V

Somewhere in the van is a small consumer unit - similar to the one at home but much smaller. It has trip switches that will cut off the mains in emergency or a fault. You should know where yours is as it is the first place to look if the power goes off. For the reasons stated in the last paragraph, the lights and fans will stay on if the hookup power goes off, but the fridge and the charger will stop working if it trips out. So learn how to recognise when you are on hookup, and when not. Many a fridge full of food has been ruined and a LB run flat, when you thought you were hooked up, but were not. The green light on the fridge, if fitted, is the easiest indication of this. Many owners get into the habit of pressing the Battery 2 button when they pass. When hooked up it should always be well over 13v. If it starts to drop when on hookup, then start looking for a reason.

A fully charged LB should do you for a weekend of wild camping with no hookup, assuming normal use.

Inverters

An inverter converts 12v battery power to 220v when you are not hooked up. They were not fitted as original equipment, so are beyond the scope of this article. However, if you do have one, then familiarise yourself with it and how it works - ask on a group or forum.

The same goes for 

Solar

Solar was not fitted by Hymer at the factory, but many vans had solar fitted by the dealer when the van was brand new. So you could have a solar system that is original and nearly 30 years old. Or it could have been fitted at any time since either by an owner or dealer. It may or may not work well - no way to know without testing it. However it is fair to say that modern solar systems are much more efficient that they were 30 years ago, and lots cheaper - so if you want solar, then make sure your system is up to scratch.

Water system. 

Somewhere in your van is a fresh water tank. You fill the tank with water - please don't put diesel in it! In the tank is a submerged pump. In each tap there is a hidden electrical switch called a microswitch. When you open a tap, the pump operates, water comes out. The pump has a fuse in the habitation fuse panel. It is not a pressured system like in a house, although there is a slight pressure. A common problem is that the switch in the tap fails, so the pump doesn't operate. You can prove this by opening the faulty tap, and then opening a different tap - water should come out of both taps. This is a useful work around if you have a faulty switch - until you can get it fixed.

Can you drink the tank water? Generally yes - I have for 20 years. But old vans can get a bit tainted so use your nose. There are all sorts of methods of cleaning the tank and pipes - it's just the same as a caravan or boat.

Waste Water - Grey Water

The waste water goes down the plug, into a tank - called the grey tank. On the tank outside is a valve. you empty the tank when you can down a grid. There is sometimes an extension hose hidden within the back bumper of the van. If you are lucky, the gauge on the control panel will display the level of fresh and grey water in your tank. If not, you have to guess, but it is normal just to expty your grey tank whenever you get the opportunity - usually when you fill with fresh. 

The grey tank can smell a bit in summer. Many owners mistake this smell for the toilet - it's not. What happens is that the grey tank never really gets full - it gets emptied regularly, so what happens after many years is that it gets a bit crusty in the upper half of the tank, and it gets worse in summer when it's hot and the odour backs up through the sink plug holes. You can minimise the problem by regularly rinsing a dash of bleach down each plug hole - you don't need a lot. Another favourite you will see online is cheap cola - I think it's rubbish, but you can try it. If it gets too bad, then a good trick is to fill the grey tank right up to the top with water bleach and disinfectant and then go for a nice long drive, and then empty it out at the other end. This should clean the upper reaches of the tank and make the problem better.

Hot Water

Most vans have a Truma boiler like this (but maybe not identical) hidden away somewhere in a cupboard or under the bed. Basically it is a big pan of water in a box, heated by gas and controlled by electricity. There is a control box with a switch and a dial. The switch switches it on and off, and the dial sets the temperature, from lukewarm to scalding hot. It's as simple as that. It needs water and gas and electricity -  you press the switch, and after a few seconds you should hear a clunk, and the green light comes on. If you get a red light, there's something wrong. The commonest reasons for a red light are either a flat battery or no gas. Another common fault is a blocked flue - quite often after winter storage animals or insects have nested in the flue outside. there should be a winter cover to prevent this, but it often gets lost and forgotten.

There is 10 litres in the tank, and it takes about 20 minutes. You can get a leisurely shower for one, or a quick shower for two. You will feel the shower water get cooler, but you can increase the hot flow on the shower tap and get one last minute or so to rinse. The hot water doesn't just disappear, you get a few minutes warning.

It is OK and not particularly wasteful of gas or electric to leave the water heater switched on, particularly if you are a busy family. Or you can switch it on as required - but its up to you. 

Heating

Most vans have a brown panel heater that looks like an old fashioned storage heater. It is made by Truma and on 5 series vans it is usually a Truma 3002. On 6 and 7 series vans it is often a Truma 5002, which is just a bigger version. It has a dial on top. Like most old fashioned gas heaters, you press and turn the dial, and release when the flame is established. If you look closely you will find a tiny inspection window and you should see the flame. You may hear a tic tic sound, which is the ignition system. 

The ignition system on 90% of vans is battery operated - there is an ignition pack at the bottom corner which contains 2 AA batteries - you remove the cover of the fire to access this. The commonest reason the fire doesn't work is simply flat batteries.

Not only does this brown heater radiate, but it also (in most vans) heats up hot air and a fan blows the hot air through a system of ducts to outlets all round the can. Look for these outlets, around 4 inches round, and they should have plastic butterfly valves that enable you to adjust the flow of air. They are similar in concept to the air vents in a car.

The fan that blows this warm air has its own control, and if you want hot air distribution then you must switch it on, after lighting the heater. It's a little brown box like the others, and is usually marked "Truma Vent". The switch is 3 way, centre off. Up operates the fan manually, and the dial sets the fan speed. Down is an automatic setting that is supposed to adjust the fan speed according to a thermostat in the switch. On many old vans this function is either not working, or unpredictable and so most owners use the manual option. It is also useful in hot weather to run the fan at full speed with the heater off, as this will circulate air around the van. This fan can "sing" as it gets older. The bearings get worn. usually you can find a setting where it isn't too bad. It's the Hymer sound. 

The fan also gets very dirty with dust after 20 years or more - cleaning it can improve circulation dramatically. There is another blog here about this.

Running the fan all night is fine - how else are you to keep warm in winter? It does use some battery power, but not much. A fully charged LB should run the heater fan non stop for at least 48 hours. You van has blown air central heating - don't be afraid to use it!

On some vans if the LB runs flat, the fans will stop, but the heater will still radiate.

Fridge

No other appliance causes more grief than the fridge! But you have to remember that in most Classics, the fridge, which was state of the art 20 years ago, is now over 20 or even 30 years old, and may or may not have been serviced regularly. There are quite a few different fridge designs used in Classic Hymers, so I can't be specific about your fridge, but I can describe the basics.

The fridge works on mains (when you are connected), gas, and some work on 12v but only when you are driving.

It is a common misconception that the fridge works on 12v from the LB. It doesn't. It only works on 12v fed from the engine alternator when the engine is running. This is because the fridge needs a lot of power on 12v, too much for the LB, so is only designed to work on 12v when driving. Most fridges have a red switch to select 12v operation. Some red switches illuminate, others don't. This switch has no function unless the engine is on, but needs to be on if you want 12v cooling when driving. When on 12v when driving the fridge does not stay as cool as on gas or hookup. It is just designed to keep cool while driving. Don't load up a warm fridge with new food at the start of a long drive and expect it to be cool when you get there on 12v. Pre-cool the fridge the day before on hookup or gas so you load food and beer into an already cold fridge. Use ice packs or even bagged ice, especially in summer, to pre cool the fridge if you can't have it on for 24 hours first.

Most fridges have a green switch, which may or may not illuminate. This switches the fridge on from 240v hookup. It will only work if you are hooked up.

Gas. It depends on your fridge model, but the basics are that you press and turn the gas dial and hold it in until the fridge ignites. Ignition can be automatic - with a flashing red switch, or manual, with a button you press. I can't be more specific as there are many different fridges. Some fridges have a window, some fridges you can hear the gas, on some fridges the red ignition switch stops flashing when the fridge is lit, and starts flashing again if the gas goes off for some reason. Hopefully you have a manual.

When on gas, but hooked up, the green switch should be off. You should not operate the fridge on both mains electricity and gas at the same time.

The gas part of an old fridge is the most likely to fail - it really needs a service every year, and should be part of your annual habitation check.

"Fridge doesn't work on gas"

This is the commonest problem and most asked question on all the groups and all the forums, nit just for Hymers, but all caravans and motorhomes over 20 years old. Here is the basic information as to why this is.

The first golden rule is this - if your fridge doesn't work on gas, then get it plugged in to EHU as soon as possible. If it then works on 220v then there is nothing wrong with the actual refrigeration bit - it's just the gas bit. But if the fridge does not work on 200v or gas, then that could be serious and it may be time to get a new fridge. The simple rule is this - in order to work, the fridge only needs a source of heat - either from the gas burner, or from the 220v element. If it works on either one, then the problem can usually be fixed.

The reason it fails on gas more than on 220v is that there are more moving parts on the gas side, and the gas side needs regular cleaning and maintenance. the 220v element is very simple by comparison - it either works or it doesn't.

This is how the gas system works. At the back of the fridge there is a chimney - it is actually a heat exchanger but it looks like a chimney. Inside it is the 220v element. There is also a 12v element on most fridges - only used when driving. At the bottom of the chimney is a small tin box, and inside the tin box is a burner. It's a bit like a tiny gas stove, only the ring is the size of a 20p piece and the flame is about the size of a medium sized candle flame. But it should be blue, and make a very gentle roaring sound.

The commonest problem is that years and years or dirt and dust have got in there and have prevented the flame from either igniting, or making it too small. In most cases all it needs is a good clean. It is such a common problem that there are literally hundreds of articles, blogs and videos on how to do it, including on my blog, and the groups I manage on FB.

There are other reasons why a fridge might not work on gas, or might not be cooling well in summer (hint - bad ventilation, corroded connections), but these are also covered elsewhere. 

The main point is this - don't let a dealer sell you a new (£1000+) fridge until you have had it checked by yourself or an honest friend - they can be fixed. Also, do NOT take any notice of online rubbish about taking the fridge out and rotating it. Or vibrating it. While there is a grain of truth in these procedures, they have to be done in the correct way by an expert. Done badly or wrongly they can terminate a fridge that could otherwise have been saved. All this is covered elsewhere.

Finally - not all fridges can be saved - if it doesn't work on gas or 220v and has been checked by a pro, then there is not a lot to do. 3-way fridges work on a sealed chemical system that is closed. Eventually the chemicals separate and can't be remixed, and too much corrosion on the inside of the pipes blocks the circulation. But at least it lasted 20 or 30 years, which isn't bad.

Gas bottles and gas.

Somewhere in the van you will find a set of gas isolation switches with various symbols on them - e.g. a snowflake for the fridge gas supply. These have a purpose, but for the purposes of this basic guide, you should not touch these on a day to day basis. Leave them on. 

Convention is that you should turn off the gas at the bottle when driving. Many owners don't. You should always turn off the gas at the bottle for storage.

I can't tell you how to change a gas bottle, because it's a safety issue. Get somebody competent to show you. Once you know - you know.

With fridge on gas, normal cooking, and the odd blast of heating in summer, or heating on permanently in winter, then you can expect one 11 or 13kg gas bottle to last you a month in summer, or a week in winter. This is an extremely broad estimate. The fridge and the water heating and cooking use relatively little gas, but the central heating if on 24/7 in a cold winter will use a bottle in 4 to 7 days depending on how hot you want to be and how cold outside.

Hymers are all weather vans - people go skiing in them. You can be 25 inside and minus 10 outside - it's just a matter of gas. 

In normal use, most new owners are pleasantly surprised at how little gas their van uses. But it pays to understand and get a feel from it, as unlike the other systems, there is no meter that tells you how much gas you have left. You have to get a feel for it. Some owners shake the bottle to see how much is left, others feel down the side of the bottle with their hand because the actual level of the liquid gas is colder, but most folk have two bottles, and swap over when one empties, and then know to get a new bottle when they can.

Many vans have refillable systems fitted, either refillable bottles or underslung tanks. Ask online about these.

The 50mb issue

This is a bit technical, but it is very important. Pre 95 classic Hymers left the factory with 50mb gas pressure systems. This was unique to pre 95 Germany. The rest of Europe used 37mb gas pressure. A pre 95 Hymer has gas appliances - the cooker fridge and heaters set up for 50mb gas pressure, and the bottles have 50mb regulators. There should be a big square sticker in the gas locker that says 50mb.

The problem is that because the UK never used 50mb, when a van was imported into the UK, many dealers simply didn't know this, so innocently replaced things with 37mb components - especially regulators, which have to be changed every few years by law.

So the basic rule is this - all owners of pre 95 classic Hymers should know about this and have their vans checked by a pro - a pro who is familiar with the problem. There is lots and lots of info and discussion online and on the groups, so new owners should ask.

Common situations are - new 37mb regs being fitted when all the appliances are 50mb. New 37mb fridges or heaters being fitted to a 50mb van. If you are a new owner - seek advice.

Cooker

Press and turn and ignite manually. Buy a gas wand.

Ovens

Ovens are a uniquely British thing - the Germans simply never fitted them! If your classic has an oven, it has likely been fitted afterwards.

Sewage - Black Water

Most Classics have a Thetford C3 cassette toilet system. It has a big knob that you turn to open the flap, and press to flush.

You open the toilet flap, do your business, press the button and if you are lucky you will get a bit of flush water - clean the bowl with the brush and push the doings down into the tank. Close the flap.

You will see when it starts to get full.

Outside the van there is a small door. Open the door, press the yellow safety catch that holds the cassette in place. Pull out the cassette, toddle off to the nearest disposal point, take off the yellow cap, press the air release button, and pour away. Pour in some blue fluid (see the side of the bottle) and leave a few litres of fresh water in the cassette. There is always a hose at the disposal point. On camp sites the water hoses for drinking, and flushing the sewage are separate by law, even though it's the same water. NEVER mix them up and use them for the wrong purpose.

Those are the basics of the dreaded cassette!

The commonest fault is either no flush, or a dribble of flush that pools in the bottom of the bowl. There is a valve inside (under the toilet roll holder) called a solenoid valve, and this usually dies of old age after 20+ years and needs replacing. The info is online.

Windows

The windows are delicate! Approach them with care, learn their little ways and never ever force them. Correct operation should be smooth and need no strength. Windows in Classics often get worn with age. Everything can be fixed, but they are fiddly to work on. 

Each window catch has a button which should always be pressed when operated. Don't force the catches. The window is held open by stays at the side. Some stays are friction operated, some stays have click latches. Gently learn how yours operate.

Most van windows have built in blinds. The blackout blind pulls up from the bottom. You squeeze the two buttons between finger and thumb, hold and gently pull up. If you release the buttons then let the blind down gently, it should locate in stops. If you look closely you will see that the buttons on the handle operate little pins on each side that locate in stops in the tracks at the side - hidden from view. Learn how they operate - they get worn on old vans.

Sometimes worn blinds will shut suddenly giving you a shock! This is because the pins get worn with age. Every window and blind in the van has its own character.

The flyscreens, fitted on most vans, pull down from the top. These don't have latches or buttons. You pull them down to meet the lower blind, and they should click together at the handle. The two blinds will then move up and down in unison. You can have a window open, the blind half up, and get fresh air but no insects. You can also have the flyscreen fully down and latched to the closed blind at the bottom for max ventilation and full protection from insects.

Do not get into the habit, at night, of ramming the lower blind up into the the closed flyscreen at the top in the hope that it will all click together. This will work, but will shorten the life of the blind. Pull up the lower blind almost closed, then pull down the flyscreen so it clicks and locks smoothly, and then raise them both to the fully closed position.

In summer or winter, with the blind fully closed, but the window slightly open, you will get some ventilation through the slots you can see in the frame of the window. 

Treat your blinds carefully! I have blogged about blind maintenance elsewhere.

Habitation Door
Treat the main door with respect - it is expensive if it goes wrong. The hinges have been known to break, and are hard to obtain. Don't let the door blow in the wind - secure it well. many a holiday has been ruined by a broken door. Keep an eye on it's fit and alignment and adjust as necessary.

Odds and Sods

Cab radio. Many radios in the cab are powered from the VB not the LB. If yours is so, then playing very loud music for a very long time may unexpectedly run down your VB. If this is an issue for you - get it sorted, it's an easy job to reconnect the cab radio to the LB instead of the VB. A few hours of gentle background music will not run down your VB, only hours and hours at full volume will. If in doubt keep an eye on battery 1 meter. If it drops below 12v because you have been playing the radio, then switch off, start the engine, and if successful, let it tick over for 15 mins. Then go get your cab radio rewired.

The step. Some vans have manual steps, others are electric. Some vans have a warning light that the step is down. Nothing is more embarrassing for a newbie than driving off with the step down and maybe causing damage. So get in the habit of a check list. Fridge on 12v, step up, heating off, roof light down, windows closed, cupboards closed and latched. The check list for every van will be slightly different - it's the habit that counts.

That's it!

This is a very basic guide, not an instruction manual. Most but not all pre 95 Hymers are roughly as described. 

Many vans have solar panels, TV systems, music systems, and all manner of accessories, but none of this is relevant to this very basic guide.

Common problems

Here is a list of the commonest problems that occur with classic Hymers, and all of these problems are covered in other blogs or in the groups online - I list them here so that if they happen to you, you will be at least re-assured a bit.

Mercedes

Loss of power on hills or even stuttering and then stopping. Cause - fuel starvation - the filters haven't been changed. Easy to fix.

Loss of ability to change gears. Cause - the selector arms on the side of the gearbox have come loose. NOT a new gearbox, so don't be conned. Easy fix.

Graunchy noises turning corners or going over bumps. Cause - worn suspension bushes.

Glowplug light comes on and bad cold starting. Cause - one of more glowplugs are faulty. easy fix - replace as a set of 5.

Temperature gauge climbs towards red zone on long hills. Cause - faulty viscous fan - ie fan not cutting in when it should. Also caused by an old radiator blocked with years of dirt. 

Engine rattles on tickover. Most old mercs have a distinctive tic tic tic which is the tappets, but if its a noisy rattle then it's nearly always the fanbelt tensioning mechanism. This needs replacing every 10 or 20 years. Lots of info online. Make a recording and post it online.

Fiat (and Fiat family). 

I am not a Fiat expert, but the commonest problem with older Fiats is the loss of 5th gear. This is covered online. Again, do not be conned into a new gearbox. It can be fixed easily, but you need to find a good garage that is familiar with the problem.

Habitation - the living area.

Dashboard appears to be moving on its own accord, on bumps and corners. Cause - The wooden dashboard has come loose after many years. It needs doing on most vans at some stage. It's a well documented fix - all you need is basic tools, drill and jigsaw, and a sheet of marine ply from the local merchants. At the same time you can re-soundproof the front of the van.

Leaking windows

Every time it rains heavily - really heavily in the wind - go round every window inside with a torch looking for water. The windows are sealed with sealer but this breaks down after many years. All windows on all vans need re-sealing at some point after 20+ years. It's a very easy job, but to do it properly you have to take the whole window out. Do not put new sealer on top of old, and do not use silicone. Loads of helpful info online. If you find water inside any part of the van, you MUST act. Damp and rot can ruin your pride and joy if left untreated.

Soft spongy floor

Most classics have floors not made of solid wood but of a sandwich type material with foam insulation. If you feel spongy bits, usually in the kitchen area, then don't panic. This can be fixed by injecting a special expanding foam. Ask online.

Leaking rooflights

Quite common, can be fixed, but act quickly otherwise your roof will rot.

Cracked shower tray and sinks.

Can be fixed nicely in situ by a company called Speedcoat. Shower trays are a big job to take out so try and fix in place if you can. If you just want a watertight fix and don't mind to see the repair, then you can fix with a special glue called Repaplas - ask online.

Sinks, cracked plug holes. We have fixes and suppliers for most problems. Ask online.

Water taps and showers - ask online.

Accident Damage. 

If you have an accident in a classic Hymer, most likely yout insurance loss adjuster will try and write it off - most major repairs are likely to cost more than the insurance value of the van. Because the vans are old most dealers, including official Hymer dealers, won't want to know. The only way to hopefully prevent your precious classic being written off is to get an expert on the job. And there are only two in the country and one of those has just retired (Hambiltons in Preston). The other one is Peter Curry at North Cotswold Motorhome Services. Peter has saved many vans from write off, and knows old Hymers inside out. There may be others - if you know of one, let me know. Don't be pushed around by your insurance company. If you love your classic van, then agree an "agreed value" with your insurers. This will prevent any future shocks. I have known folk pay £15k for a nice classic but only been offered £9k as a write off.

Spare parts

Brownhills and Coastal Motorhomes are your main suppliers. But ask online for advice. Hymers are German vans and still very popular over there, but the German scene is hard to navigate because of the language problem. But we do have contacts if needed.

Your number one resource for Classic Hymer Technical info is the Facebook group I run called "Classic Hymers Technical" 

Links to other blogs in more detail

https://hymers700.blogspot.com/2020/08/fridge-not-working-on-gas-logical.html

https://hymers700.blogspot.com/2022/05/re-classic-hymer-meter-panel-explained.html

https://hymers700.blogspot.com/2022/05/the-classic-hymer-meter-panel-explained.html

https://hymers700.blogspot.com/2019/09/the-classic-hymer-fuse-panel-explained.html

https://hymers700.blogspot.com/2020/06/inverters-in-motorhome-for-beginners.html

https://hymers700.blogspot.com/2021/03/solar-panels-for-classic-hymers-new.html

And many more.

Pretty much every nut bolt and device has been discussed, argued about, blogged and flogged over many years, so remember that there is hardly anything new - so ask if in doubt.